Tag Archives: history

Worcester (without the sauce)

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Unwittingly, 2025 is turning into the ‘without‘ tour. Previously, on Junos View, Dundee was explored without the famous cake. Now, that unpronounceable place (to foreigners and indigenous idiot’s) – Wuss-ter, has been discovered without any of the Lea & Perrins strange brown thing (sauce).

So, here’s the thing…

Once upon a time, across the border, there’s this old thing… called Ingerlund. And, it’s full of these really old things… called cities, and towns, and things. Some are older than others, but Worcester is definitely an older thing.

If you’re coming here, it’s probably going to be a history thing… particularly if you’re into Tudor things.

Or, maybe, it’s a religious thing… with a particularly impressive one of those cathedral things.

Then again, perhaps it’s an imbibing thing… with a good few of those old pub-like things.

But, it’s definitely an eating thing. Though, in my case, the pie and a pint thing was fully booked up… so it had to be an Anatolian thing…

Then again, for me it’s that strange notion of being the largest place in the UK by population I haven’t visited, thing… until now. After all, that’s what Dundee was prior to Worcester.

Until we speak again, it used to be a thing… now it’s done! As for you, it depends on your thing…

Lovin’ the ‘Diff – Arcadia

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Is Cardiff more than the sum of its parts? That’s a more difficult equation than you might think. After all, it has at least six quarters for starters! As I gaze over the dock feeder canals surrounding Chez Juno, I’m thinking of adding a ‘Duck & Swan Quarter‘ into the mix (?).

Looking at any city these days, it’s increasingly difficult to determine the DNA when so many multinationals populate identikit shopping malls. But, here in the ‘Diff, we at least still have ‘The Arcades‘. Yes, other cities have an arcade or two, but here, the city centre has somehow retained six of its originals within Cardiff Council‘s thirst for demolishing sections of its history.

I would write my own personal tribute, but I can’t top that of Joao Morais…

With full acknowledgement to the original source, I replicate an ‘Ode To The City Of Arcades‘ for those of you with failing eyesight:

Now if you truly had to choose

what Cardiff things would you enthuse?

A Central Market hot Welsh cake?

A pedalo round Roath Park lake?

The revelry of rugby days?

Pontcanna, Splott, The Bay, Cathays?

Consider, though, you may have missed

our FINE ARCADES from off your list.

They’re beautiful, you must concur,

ideal to any choice flaneur,

and full of any experts who

delight in sharing what they do.

You want a vape, a tailored shirt,

a pair of shoes, a vintage skirt?

A hair cut, board game, something sweet?

A gin, tattoo, or bite to eat?

These grand Arcades, each one unique,

are more than merely worth a pique.

They even offer – though mundane

a place to shelter from the rain.

It’s sometimes easy to ignore

the wealth of riches at your door.

If any place of many trades

deserves cascades of accolades,

it’s Cardiff’s great, first-rate arcades!

Until we speak again, thanks Joao, you put beautifully into words one of the many things about Lovin‘ the ‘Diff!

For more information on these fabulous arcades you can visit: thecityofarcades.com

Historic Norwich

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Yes, York and Bath and Edinburgh are fabulous visits if you’re looking to indulge in historic reflection (all covered in previous posts). However, our islands making up the UK are steeped in history. The city of Norwich is a showcase example of what can be gained given the foresight and will to preserve our heritage.

With the Maids Head Hotel, Norwich lays claim to the oldest of its kind in the UK.

Its Winepress restaurant also provides a great option for dining while reflecting on that history…

Just a few steps, and you’re back many centuries on Elm Hill...

The wonderful maze of huts making up Norwich Market are also flanked by the Guildhall as a fine example of past civic pride…

And for those who enjoy a religious veneer to their travels, it is yet another city that boasts two fine cathedrals amongst the very numerous preserved churches throughout the city centre…

Claims to be its oldest pub (Adam & Eve) seem to come with a qualification, but the opportunity to prompt historic reflection with a fine local beer proves an unqualified success…

Until we speak again, if it’s history you want, Norwich has it covered… even in your hotel bathroom…

History reborn

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Current day Stag & Hen do’s have nothing on the Nazi’s when it comes to leaving a place wrecked after a visit…

On a recent visit to Warsaw, I was so happy to have visited both the Museum of Warsaw and the Warsaw Museum of Uprising. Combined, they provide a chilling reflection on the scale of shear destruction inflicted on this city.

However, they also provide the beacon of hope when we see what can be achieved in reconstruction using remaining photographs and plans the evil occupiers failed to destroy.

The Old Town in Warsaw may look a little shinier than say that in Krakow, but there is a renewed sense that history shouldn’t be obliterated and then simply left forgotten.

Sensitive reconstruction can be so much better than bland modernism (though wider Warsaw can claim both). It may well be more tourist orientated today, but that shouldn’t detract from the economic value that brings to the World Heritage site. Planners and architects the world over could learn a lot of positive messages from the instruction provided by Warsaw.

Until we speak again, I recommend you come support and enjoy the thriving reconstruction of a devastated city. But, be wary… the spectre of Russian surveillance may never be far away!

Essential Lisbon

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Just going is essential… nuff said! But if you need tempting, there’s always the al a carte cuisine…

Not to say the futuristic transport…

Modern music to make Beyonce sound retro…

The oldest bookshop in the world…

A fabulous range of wine way beyond that headbanging fortified stuff…

Shocking pink theatres…

Lady’s of etiquette…

Even provide a monument to lemmings and cliffs…

A never-ending supply of work for anyone interested in tiles (and more transport weirdness!)…

Aching sadness and melancholy through a word that is pure Portuguese with no translation…

Until we speak again, Lisbon will surprise, enchant, and provide some stunning vistas while you’re resting weary legs…

Why go to Dublin?

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Is that even a real question? Ask any random selection of pissheads… sorry, tourists, and you can be sure that none of the most familiar reasons for visiting will be liquidated. But is there anything that can seriously interrupt the flow? 

Quenching that religious thirst that draws so many of us when on holiday is well served in this capital city of a Catholic country. Here, there are two cathedrals, neither of them Catholic in persuasion! However, both are very capitalist in nature. You don’t need to wrestle your conscience when staring at the donation box… you’ve already paid a compulsory admission fee to get anywhere near the box.

Christ Church Cathedral comes with a fully accessible crypt. It’s a great place for hiding that most worshipful of gift shops…

Half a mile away sits St Patrick’s Cathedral dedicated to a Welshman who possibly decided his own homeland wasn’t wet enough! Meanwhile, the organist clearly buys into the more regular reasons for visiting Dublin…

Apparently, the General Post Office was a site of much spillage back in the early 1900s… blood in particular. Once you’ve purchased your commemorative stamp in the cathedral-like main office, splash out some more dosh next door and educate yourself about the 1916 Easter Uprising, leading to Irish independence from British rule.

Still got that need for surfing local history? On the north bank of the River Liffey, you really should set aside an emotional half day to learn more about the impact of the 1845-52 Potato Famine. The EPIC Museum details mass emigration, as the national need to install the Irish Pub into every other part of the world officially began. Further connection with the horrors of the day can be found in the statues making up the Famine Monument. Also, a must visit is the 45-minute guided tour of the Jeannie Johnson tall ship, which made 16 journeys carrying human cargo across the Atlantic.

Finally, if you’re apprehended for any misdemeanours, there is a large and empty place of interest waiting to accommodate you. Kilmainham Gaol is another highly rated tourist attraction. Closed down in 1924, it’s still a fine source of social and political history and became something of a blueprint for subsequent prison layout… including crosses to identify the places where executions by firing squad took place!

Until we speak again, Dublin Castle provides less depth of interest. But, who would’ve known it was the blueprint for tall cranes?

Devouring history

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History didn’t end when us white Europeans colonised the already populated lands we know of as America. But we do occasionally have an arrogant tendency to look on these parts as too young by comparison if they try to claim historical context.

Take the Treme district of New Orleans, for example. The widely recognised birthplace of jazz also happens to be the oldest Black neighbourhood in the USA. 212 years and counting is good going. You may not find any ruined centuries old castles here, but if you open your mind, then walking these streets inspires imagination.

As a neighbourhood, Treme likes to wear its pride prominently on its sleeve. History emerges from a wealth of creative people and culture with memories that reverberate down the generations.

Alongside a thirst for knowledge all of this walking can generate an appetite. Talking of which… Dooky Chase’s is right on hand and remains a must for Southern Fried Chicken at its best… particularly with sides of stewed okra & mustard greens.

For many visitors to NOLA, the French Quarter just may be all they see or struggle with their vision after many hours imbibing on Bourbon Street. Pre-inebriation historical appreciation can still be indulged, for example, a stroll by what claims to be the oldest bar in the US (Lafitte’s Blacksmith Shop Bar). But, look forward and look up in order to appreciate that mix of classic French/Spanish architectural styles.

And when that stomach rumbles to a beckoning tune, you’re spoiled for choice with fabulous restaurants populating the area. On this auspicious occasion, Antoine’s Restaurant on St Louis Street provides a perfect blend of historical setting and fine dining.

It’s a shame that eating the full menu wasn’t physically an option, so I had to be satisfied with a cup of Seafood Gumbo, Grilled Pompano Fish, and their signature Pecan Bread Pudding. An armtwisting got me to accept a French Medoc off the burgundy list. But don’t let the erstwhile ‘enforcer’ know I said it was a great choice.

And so to the Garden District, with all its horticultural finery on display. There is no shortage of historic opulence here. Just let your imagination cast its own spells as you wonder who lived in these great residences over the years. A few have their historic occupants named on metal plaques to indulge your curiosity.

And, any district affording the donation of the following building as a public library isn’t doing too bad for itself.

Still feeling peckish after a mesmerising meander around ‘the Garden‘? Why not make a reservation (months in advance) for the iconic Commanders Palace.

Once again, the food was otherworldly… just don’t ask about our experience of the service as it failed to match the incredibly high expectations we brought to the table. The Turtles were sure doing what they did best… with the help of an ostentatious splash au Sherry at the table! The Chargrilled Jerk Spiced Duroc Pork Chop was simply steak-like in its presence and undoubtedly the best chop I’ve ever tasted… with special thanks to the provider, I hope they enjoyed the life dedicated to this moment.

And, yes, he who doesn’t often do deserts was diving into another Creole Bread Pudding Souffle affair… this time with warm whiskey cream.

Until we speak again, dive into your history with a passion equal to your culinary fascinations. But beware of unexpected pyrotechnics… when they ask if you like your food ‘hot’, this wasn’t what I had in mind.

Herculaneum

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Done Pompei already? Or maybe looking for something equally entrancing but more compact and less overwhelmed by tourists? The shadow of Vesuvius casts you a choice… even if none were offered to so many local residents in AD 79!

The town of Erculano hosts the beautifully excavated Herculaneum. Experts have identified the different fates of Pompei and Herculaneum residents during the same disaster. The former were hit by ash and rocks while the latter were incinerated by molten mud slides. This matters because it underpins the different qualities of what’s preserved between the two sites.

At Pompei, you have a larger town with a sense of public spaces and private lives. Whereas Herculaneum is distinctively exhibiting a smaller, more intimate sense of private residence. On arriving at the site, you have the benefit of elevation to take in the panoramic view…

Getting down into the excavated ruins you initially experience very much the street view of the former bustling port…

But then there is the distinct detail that provides that home view of private lives lived in the shadow of what would become a short-lived terror…

But finally, there is the emotional view, what also distinguishes Herculaneum from Pompei… hundreds of preserved skeletons at the lowest level of the site portray a vision of the horror, as many residents attempted to shelter at the port side stores from the advancing mud that would engulf and ultimately preserve their remains…

Until we speak again, was that a perfectly preserved cat, or simply the chilled out undercarriage view?

Now, I’m sure there was a toilet around here somewhere!

Cats in a Bath

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Oh no… that didn’t seem to work so well!

Ah, this is more like it… so a couple of cats went to Bath!

At times, the sheer volume of tourist visitors to this internationally recognised city of historic and cultural heritage can be overwhelming. So, pick your timing for a visit carefully. Instructive street signage combined with an unusual welcome from a top-hatted bird might just help set a favourable tone!

But I’m sure what you, and millions of others, came for was undoubtedly a glimpse of the Royal Crescent. Always good to spend a few moments dreaming of what is and what can never be, I guess!

But climbing that hill while taking in a large dose of culture and history will surely require some sustenance. Maybe a chance to stretch the finances to indulge those fantasies of wealth. Well, fear not, award winning nosh is close to hand, not to ignore the tempting wine selection hidden behind the restaurant name… Corkage comes with great prior reviews, so let’s give it a look…

Amongst a wide range of liquid temptations, an enticing invitation from Puglia takes centre stage. With a little nudge from the wine waiter the more expensive vintage is ordered, in a nod to the opulent surroundings of this whole trip.

But the question is what to have with it? Maybe ‘spiced sweet potatoes with pickled red onion, lime and sumac yoghurt’ sounds a mystifying enough temptation. Then again, ‘frogs legs pan fried with grilled baby gem, lemon breadcrumbs and satay sauce’ would at least demonstrate the British openness to all things European, in the ongoing shambles of Brexitland. Then again, ‘colley fillet with wild rice, pan choi, tarragon hollandaise and chilli oil’ keeps swimming into vision. But the wine choice is red, so perhaps that ‘lamb rump with smoked mashed potato, roast parsnip and coffee jus’ is what’s really standing up to be counted here. But, wait a minute, ‘rabbit ragu with tagliatelle and mustard’ also comes hopping into view.

Decisions, decisions… with a further range of other tempting options putting up their hands for attention across a small but extraordinary menu. Then it comes to you… there is that most wondrous of phrases in the English language… ‘All of the above‘! And just then, you’re helpfully reminded that this restaurant does a small plates approach to dining. Not to be confused with tapas, no, not that small. Something that perfectly solves the ‘all of the above’ dilemma…

Such perfectly proportioned finery may even permit space to encourage surprise and more than a little admiration from a certain US based dessert aficionado. Why not bring on the burnt Basque cheesecake with mulled wine plums, garçon! After all, I’ve given in to more of these dessert temptations during this spring season than I have across the previous decade. However, I don’t think anything more than the world’s smallest spoonful of that chocolate affair, even with its rhubarb ganache, miso cream and crispy caramel, will pass these lips though.

Such a fine and delicate dining experience demands a post-meal walk; which is beautifully accommodated by this place of history and intrigue…

A comfortable place to rest is the next item on the itinerary, preferably with a seductive location for breakfast. Got that covered as well, as long as you’re not spooked by a strange equine companion closely observing you…

Until we speak again, perhaps there is a near perfect cappuccino to be found more easily than a recent US quest! Step forward Cortado, near Pulteney Bridge… and chill (return and repeat)!

NOLA: Distilling the essence

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Born on a bayou, emerging out of a swamp, frequently in the eye of a hurricane, situated between the mighty Mississippi River and Lake Pontchartrain, largely lying at or below the natural water table, wondering when the levees will break… (there are quite a few ideas for songs here already!). But, why would anyone visit, let alone live, in a place like New Orleans?

The French came here and lay the foundations for a Quarter. The Spanish came here and added to the architectural diversity. Creoles and Cajuns emerged here bringing their separate and unique influences on the diversity of Louisiana cuisine, amongst many other characteristics. Africans were brought here and contributed so much to a culture of celebration, emanating from Congo Square (now part of Armstrong Park). And, the British came here looking to expand an empire only to be defeated by the combination of a local bureaucrat and a pirate (Andrew Jackson and Jean Lafitte)!

Jazz music was born here, and exported to the rest of America and beyond as a young Louis Armstrong followed in the footsteps of his early mentors. It continues to thrive through virtuosity in the Preservation Hall, the clubs and bars throughout the city, and street musicians and marches.

The range of cuisine alone, from diners to fine dining, takes up many accompanying posts on this blog. From shrimp & grits to turtle soup, from crawfish etouffee to seafood gumbo, from boudin sausage to beignets… leave your mental recipe book behind because this is a whole new language!

How do you capture the essence of such a complex city of people, history, architecture, food, and music? And I haven’t even started on the quaint old streetcars on St Charles Avenue, Steamboat Nachez on the Mississippi, or the voodoo influences and iconic above-ground cemeteries, that include the tombs of notables such as Marie Laveau (the Witch Queen of New Orleans).

Well, I guess I need to sit down and think about that over a tipple of something special. The French Quarter just happens to be the home of the cocktail, with Sazerac being established in a pharmacy by Antoine Peychaud in 1838 on Royal Street. If I were to distil the essence of New Orleans perhaps that’s it right there in a glass! Just make sure you have an expert like my good friend Tom Seay (follower of this blog) to perform the ritual of creating your drink!

Until we speak again, New Orleans is a melting pot of influences, ideas, atmosphere and experiences, of cultures, a complex range of local cuisines, the birthplace of great musical traditions. Depending on your personal tastes and who you are it’s a friendly and welcoming place. You can take it or leave it, because essentially…