Over there in Barrytown

“They do things very strange.” Or so the Steely Dan lyrics from the 1974 Pretzel Logic album suggest. My recent post Performative Pizza might be taken to imply a similar message. Or, how about creating a permanent light display in a short road tunnel, Why not? [Photo credit: Rachel Kinchin].

My childhood in Cardiff involved regular visits to Barry Island. After all, it was the local seaside place. Sandy beach, funfair, dubious Butlins Holiday Camp, strange beachside stone arcades with cheap versions of doric columns, soggy chips that even the seagulls shunned.

Why on earth would you bother stopping a mile or two short for the nondescript charmless Barry, or the boring pebble beach of Cold Knap? Then, as know-it-all teenagers we would conjure up our own versions of the reality implied by the Steely Dan lyrics.

Fast forward several decades: questionable development of some wisdom, maybe; or at least, valuable guidance from my new Barry correspondent. Suddenly, the strange things they do in Barry town are more than worthy of investigation.

Goodsheds includes a quirky line of shipping container like boxes arranged to resemble the carriages of an old steam train. Ironically, or maybe not, located close to the 1960’s graveyard for so many British steam engines. Now it’s a mix of interesting little independent shops and eateries. Quite unlike anywhere else, maybe [Photo credit: Yvette Clark].

Beneath the dockside apartments, at ground floor level art of a different kind. A range of pictures of shops and coffee places decorate empty retail premises. At least it gives a superficial impression of bustling business. Who said Barry was just a place of illusion?

One of the few that are open, in prime location looking down the length of the dock, is Craft Republic. A note to its craft ale origins, but as much a reference to a sense of the Independent Republic of Barry!

On the High Street, that isn’t a High Street as you’d recognise it today, a Craft Republic spin-off is MOR Wines – a wine shop that also functions in limited hours as a very good wine bar. This is a High Street of small local community premises that give this place a unique feel, most unlike standard High Street fayre of so many other places.

The local community feel of so much of contemporary Barry also opens its doors to international cuisine, in the form of the Usta Turkish Restaurant. This just happens to be a not-so-hidden gem at the point where Barry island or Cold Knap become an actual decision (but don’t tell anyone; we don’t want to have to book a table because of elevated demand!).

The Sucuk, Babaganoush, Lamb Shish & Mixed Shish are all done to a quality that makes you want to come back, just to be sure it really is as good as you first thought.

That Turkish red wine wasn’t bad either. But save some space for MOR, if it’s still open after your meal. They have a range of reds or whites by the glass to make you embrace the art of falling over later.

Until we speak again, they also do a good line in moonshots and sunsets over in Barry town, or more accurately, Cold Knap (sourced from my Barry correspondent):

Smak Ukrainski

No, that title isn’t a further command from the Fuhrer in the Kremlin. Smak Ukrainski happens to be something you really should do the next time you happen to be in Krakow in Poland.

Whilst many fabulous Polish restaurants were tried and loved, I simply couldn’t resist an opportunity of my first Ukraine culinary experience.

We seem to be struggling and stumbling to fully support their fight for survival against a vicious aggressor. Yet, it turns out they are supporting us in quite delicious ways. The following is just a selection from the full menu…

Plums with Bacon turns out to be something of a sweet and sour taste explosion that leaves your pigs in blankets thrashing about in the proverbial…

Then there is the option of Potato Cakes & Goulash with a side of Young Fried Cabbage. Meat and two veg will never be the same.

But, if Ukraine cuisine came as a pleasant surprise, that was nothing compared to the first discovery of Ukrainian red wine.

After perusing five pages of Georgian wines I was already in liquid heaven. Then the final page delivered up the beautiful surprise.

The dry Merlot instantly opened my eyes to a hitherto unexpected source of the desired nectar. It’s smooth and bold enough to open up peace negotiations with anyone. Well, probably not with intransigent psychopathic Russians.

Until we speak again, it seems Ukraine has a high class offer for us. It’s about time we reciprocated with more than the current warm words and promises.

Performative pizza

Going to Italy doesn’t guarantee you an excellent pizza. But going to Barry does…

Yes, it’s that Barry. The more interesting half of the UK comedy show ‘Dickhead & Stacey‘ (the Welsh half, not the English half). For US readers the UK ‘Gavin & Stacey‘ show involves that Gavin/Dickhead you’ll remember as the Brit hosting one of your talk shows… why did you send him back here??

Anyway, I digress. Take one wood-fired pizza oven (as demonstrated above), one genuine Italian family business, local punters who wish to ignore the mediocre hoard of chain pizza joints.

It’s a Friday evening on Barry High Street, hunger building, step up to the plate: Paletta Pizzeria. Without a reservation, we were lucky to bag the one remaining table for two available.

Authenticity is quickly guaranteed as the order of a Salmone pizza (provola, fresh mozzarella, ricotta, black olives, rocket, topped with smoked salmon) and a Maiale pizza (tomato, fresh mozzarella, pepperoni sausage, salami, cooked ham) arrive, with that smoky wood-fired aroma and fresh ingredients.

I’ve had some excellent pizzas in Italy; my all-time favourite used to be the former Casa Lina in Rochester, UK. But Barry on the south Wales coast can claim its spot at the top table of pizza magnificense. An Aperol Spritz & Nero D’Avalo red wine set off the food just right.

Not being a usual dessert type, my companion reminded me that Italians know their stuff beyond just pizza & pasta. So, a Panna Cotta and Tiramisu just had to be sampled, with great coffees, to complete that fully authentic experience.

Until we speak again, don’t let on, as it appears Barry is one of life’s quiet corners of performative excellence. The building hunger was triggered by a couple of hours a few doors away at Mor Barry Island Spirits & Wine Bar. An interesting wine shop with a limited hours bar and occasional special events of the liquid persuasion.

Between us we managed to sample an excellent Cabernet Franc, Pinot Noir, Rioja and Malbec. Simply fabulous.

Georgia on my mind, again

No, I’m not thinking Ray Charles, as great as he was. And no, I’m definitely not thinking of a state in the world’s newest despotic nation. The Georgia on my mind here is new and located in Wales… and no, I’m not talking yet another embarrassment on the world rugby union stage either. This Georgia on my mind is a fabulous new addition to the cuisines available in the heart of Cardiff.

Georgian food doesn’t seem to be widely available on my travels (though post 489. ‘Georgia on my mind’ outlines a first encounter in Riga, Latvia). And did you know… Georgia just happens to be the oldest wine producing region in the world… so what’s not to like here.

Genatsvale has only been open since summer 2025, and on a quiet Thursday afternoon it provided the perfect setting for two people sharing a love of all things Georgia. The menu displayed outside the entrance already establishes authenticity… why succumb to dumbing down to the bland repetition of so many town centre eateries when you can have something genuine and different.

The wine list also testifies to a certain confidence in what they do… you’ll not find anything that isn’t originally sourced in Georgia… and those 8000 years of practice shine through in today’s bottles! That Qvervi Saperavi bottle just happened to be the most expensive of four reds also available by the glass… very important as you realise time is gently passing by and one bottle just isn’t going to be enough to do it justice.

As for the food, well there is the essential Georgian dumplings… the Kinkhali, made with a variety of fillings. We went for the beef & pork and the lamb (chicken and vegetarian options are available). Don’t forget to ask the waiter how to eat these things, or life might get a little messy. And be prepared to wait, and sample that wine, because these delights are prepared to order…

Pkali was something I hadn’t heard of before… large enough balls of pate in four flavours, but forget everything else you’ve experienced in life and just let the beetroot version take you to somewhere else altogether.

But even that was surpassed by the delicate balance of tastes involved with the Mushrooms in ketsi. The mushroom and melted cheese might just recalibrate your taste buds in ways you never thought possible.

And, getting back to that Qvervi Saperavi… somehow 5 or more hours seemed to pass by in no time. Yes, good company invites a sense of a complete loss of time, but good wine smoothes the whole process in ways that a cup of tea never seems to be quite enough.

Until we speak again, Georgia is on my mind. Ray Charles might well be talking about a place that fortunately stood up to the bullying of the Chief Narcissist of Untrustworthy Land, but I’m currently very interested in a very small plot of real estate right in the centre of my own city. Now, if anyone could also play that grand piano in one corner of the restaurant…

NOLA: UK-style

With all the antics of the King of Dumbfuckistan in Washington DC, supported by his Mental Agility’s Gone Away (MAGA) movement, my regular visits to NOLA simply had to stop. So, it was to my great delight on a current trip to (proper) York that I find NOLA has come to me…

With an upstairs restaurant and occasional downstairs jazz venue, the New Orleans essence is there to be fully experienced.

On the menu, right out of Louisiana, we have Jambalaya, Gumbo, Cajun Monkfish, and Creole Dirty Rice

Creole Brioche Bread Pudding can only be accompanied by the classic Sazerac cocktail…

And yes, a few jazz classics sublimely finish off the perfect vibe…

Until we speak again, the only let down comes when you leave the venue, luxuriating in the many wonderful New Orleans memories… to step into a cold damp January UK night.

Less is more

So the cliche goes… but for a good reason. Regulars here will know I like a short and focused menu when enjoying a good restaurant. Buenos Aires Argentine Steakhouse in Chiswick, west London hits the spot perfectly.

I’m not counting, but I wouldn’t be surprised if they had more Malbec red wines than starters or mains (but not combined)…

However, what they also have are some fabulous Padron Peppers (with Malbec salt, of course); nicely continuing my Padron Peppers World Tour following a recent revisit to Alegoria restaurant in Barcelona!

And, the most perfectly succulent medium rare Fillet Steak, I just had to add the Patagonia Malbec Reserve for a simply magical Sunday afternoon meal.

The chunky chips and peppercorn sauce just added to the shear culinary delights.

Until we speak again, move over Gaucho, there’s a new Argentina favourite on the block.

A taste of Egypt

Why go to Cairo when you can have lunch Egyptian style in Chiswick? There may be many good reasons, but it’s not likely to be a relaxation-driven decision.

I hadn’t intended an Egyptian interlude to my day in west London. It just imposed itself in the moment. Alaz looked inviting, and the quick glance at online reviews drew me in.

Juno would no doubt have been disgusted by my meat-free choice of meal. But the traditional Egyptian dish of Koshari was too tempting to pass by for the ubiquitous Mediterranean & Middle Eastern lamb kofte or chicken dish.

What’s more, my choice of cafe/restaurant came without alcohol, with a Mint & Lemon juice providing such a refreshing option.

Who knew that a combination of rice, pasta, chickpeas, onion, and assorted a.n.other’s would be so tasty? Well, vegetarians and vegans, I guess… if they could summon up the strength to say!

Until we speak again, Egypt would be a great destination, I’m sure. But if you happen to be anywhere near west LondonAlaz is a great (and cheaper) alternative. Just don’t let the ghost of Juno catch you dabbling in meat-free stupidity.

Reminiscing

To Juno I was an old git long ago! However, now that the retirement thing has arrived I can truly say it brings the opportunity to trawl a wealth of memories and time to revisit some… hopefully… health permitting.

It’s been at least 2 years since I thought about doing my first visit of the 21st century back to Porthcawl in South Wales. A place so frequently visited in my childhood and so rarely since. The expanse of beach out to the tide and walking amongst the sand dunes brings back memories of holidays way back in the early 1960’s. Yes, reminiscing really can connect us to vivid memories.

But it’s not only the geography that changes so little. Beales is a Porthcawl institution.

It’s difficult to find much finer fish & chips. Why use the takeaway when you have the restaurant to savour freshly prepared food. A glance at the menu also provides the family history reflecting the passion they have for serving for your pleasure.

But it’s only when that plate arrives that memories of halcyon days return. Fine flakes of delicate Cod fish in a light batter served up with chips of the highest quality. Of course, a side of mushy peas is a must for the connoisseur. I didn’t even eat fish with chips when I was young, so this part of the reminiscing was more on what I missed out on.

Until we speak again, Porthcawl serves up fine memories. But it also has its cool contemporary coffee place in an old harbour building. Perhaps Corner Coffee will become a source of future reminiscing.

Hanoi 1991

No, this post isn’t going to be about a historic event… or even a memorable holiday trip. This is one of those moments when you realise you’ve been occasionally walking past a culinary gem in a Cardiff city centre arcade for five years. Then, a random look at Google maps reviews brings the shocking truth about what you’ve been missing. It’s 11.30am on a Thursday morning as you realise there is only one place lunch is going to happen… it’s time to visit Hanoi 1991 in Cardiff’s enchanting Royal Arcade.

As with so many gems the menu is pleasingly short… as displayed near the entrance and above the counter. This is Hanoi street food authentically presented and deliciously flavoured.

Grilled Pork ‘Banh My’ with a Vietnamese Egg Coffee… was the choice for a fist visit. But in no more than 48 hours I was drawn back to try the equally appetising Lemongrass Beef ‘Banh My‘.

Until we speak again, I’ll just have to stay mesmerised by that Vietnamese Egg Coffee! If you think a cappuccino style presentation coffee with deep foam made of egg yolk, milk and sugar sounds like a strange combination you would be technically correct. But, one taste and you suddenly know your coffee has just doubled up as your dessert. This was the real reason for returning a second time within 48 hours. The third visit will not be too far away.

Double take

It’s not often I go to a fabulous restaurant on holiday and risk it a second night running. You know all about those wonderful memories that you could be putting in jeopardy!

Well, Alegoria was that good, I just had to roll the dice. The atmosphere is somewhat like a Greek taverna… but this definitely isn’t Greece.

The welcome was warm from the moment I arrived and throughout the meal from a small group of staff who really seemed to be enjoying their work. So this is clearly not one of those chain restaurants churning out mediocrity with a fake smile.

The menu is relatively short, so the quality of what is presented on the plate is a top priority. So this isn’t one of those places that aims to offer something for everyone.

For the record, the accompanying photos include padron green peppers and melt in the mouth iberic pork cheek on the first visit. The second visit matched the whole experience with melon & iberic ham followed by a gorgeous ribeye steak seasoned with just the right level of salty tears!

Unlike a few other places I visited nearby, a selection of wine by the glass was offered, and I found something I had never heard of but was one of those wines where one glass could never be enough… just like one visit to this restaurant is never enough.

Until we speak again, you don’t think I’m going to tell you where it is, do you? You’d all be going there and I’d have to book my table!

The previous ‘iberic‘ references might also help. It’s not France, Italy or Portugal… but it might be close to them on a big map. The city has a successful football team in the mould of Pep Guardiola, and also miles of beachfront and marina with Olympic references. It’s also located within 100 metres of a very busy tourist street where people Rambla along… but unless you’re searching for it, you’ll never see it.