Over there in Barrytown

“They do things very strange.” Or so the Steely Dan lyrics from the 1974 Pretzel Logic album suggest. My recent post Performative Pizza might be taken to imply a similar message. Or, how about creating a permanent light display in a short road tunnel, Why not? [Photo credit: Rachel Kinchin].

My childhood in Cardiff involved regular visits to Barry Island. After all, it was the local seaside place. Sandy beach, funfair, dubious Butlins Holiday Camp, strange beachside stone arcades with cheap versions of doric columns, soggy chips that even the seagulls shunned.

Why on earth would you bother stopping a mile or two short for the nondescript charmless Barry, or the boring pebble beach of Cold Knap? Then, as know-it-all teenagers we would conjure up our own versions of the reality implied by the Steely Dan lyrics.

Fast forward several decades: questionable development of some wisdom, maybe; or at least, valuable guidance from my new Barry correspondent. Suddenly, the strange things they do in Barry town are more than worthy of investigation.

Goodsheds includes a quirky line of shipping container like boxes arranged to resemble the carriages of an old steam train. Ironically, or maybe not, located close to the 1960’s graveyard for so many British steam engines. Now it’s a mix of interesting little independent shops and eateries. Quite unlike anywhere else, maybe [Photo credit: Yvette Clark].

Beneath the dockside apartments, at ground floor level art of a different kind. A range of pictures of shops and coffee places decorate empty retail premises. At least it gives a superficial impression of bustling business. Who said Barry was just a place of illusion?

One of the few that are open, in prime location looking down the length of the dock, is Craft Republic. A note to its craft ale origins, but as much a reference to a sense of the Independent Republic of Barry!

On the High Street, that isn’t a High Street as you’d recognise it today, a Craft Republic spin-off is MOR Wines – a wine shop that also functions in limited hours as a very good wine bar. This is a High Street of small local community premises that give this place a unique feel, most unlike standard High Street fayre of so many other places.

The local community feel of so much of contemporary Barry also opens its doors to international cuisine, in the form of the Usta Turkish Restaurant. This just happens to be a not-so-hidden gem at the point where Barry island or Cold Knap become an actual decision (but don’t tell anyone; we don’t want to have to book a table because of elevated demand!).

The Sucuk, Babaganoush, Lamb Shish & Mixed Shish are all done to a quality that makes you want to come back, just to be sure it really is as good as you first thought.

That Turkish red wine wasn’t bad either. But save some space for MOR, if it’s still open after your meal. They have a range of reds or whites by the glass to make you embrace the art of falling over later.

Until we speak again, they also do a good line in moonshots and sunsets over in Barry town, or more accurately, Cold Knap (sourced from my Barry correspondent):

Performative pizza

Going to Italy doesn’t guarantee you an excellent pizza. But going to Barry does…

Yes, it’s that Barry. The more interesting half of the UK comedy show ‘Dickhead & Stacey‘ (the Welsh half, not the English half). For US readers the UK ‘Gavin & Stacey‘ show involves that Gavin/Dickhead you’ll remember as the Brit hosting one of your talk shows… why did you send him back here??

Anyway, I digress. Take one wood-fired pizza oven (as demonstrated above), one genuine Italian family business, local punters who wish to ignore the mediocre hoard of chain pizza joints.

It’s a Friday evening on Barry High Street, hunger building, step up to the plate: Paletta Pizzeria. Without a reservation, we were lucky to bag the one remaining table for two available.

Authenticity is quickly guaranteed as the order of a Salmone pizza (provola, fresh mozzarella, ricotta, black olives, rocket, topped with smoked salmon) and a Maiale pizza (tomato, fresh mozzarella, pepperoni sausage, salami, cooked ham) arrive, with that smoky wood-fired aroma and fresh ingredients.

I’ve had some excellent pizzas in Italy; my all-time favourite used to be the former Casa Lina in Rochester, UK. But Barry on the south Wales coast can claim its spot at the top table of pizza magnificense. An Aperol Spritz & Nero D’Avalo red wine set off the food just right.

Not being a usual dessert type, my companion reminded me that Italians know their stuff beyond just pizza & pasta. So, a Panna Cotta and Tiramisu just had to be sampled, with great coffees, to complete that fully authentic experience.

Until we speak again, don’t let on, as it appears Barry is one of life’s quiet corners of performative excellence. The building hunger was triggered by a couple of hours a few doors away at Mor Barry Island Spirits & Wine Bar. An interesting wine shop with a limited hours bar and occasional special events of the liquid persuasion.

Between us we managed to sample an excellent Cabernet Franc, Pinot Noir, Rioja and Malbec. Simply fabulous.