Georgia on my mind, again

No, I’m not thinking Ray Charles, as great as he was. And no, I’m definitely not thinking of a state in the world’s newest despotic nation. The Georgia on my mind here is new and located in Wales… and no, I’m not talking yet another embarrassment on the world rugby union stage either. This Georgia on my mind is a fabulous new addition to the cuisines available in the heart of Cardiff.

Georgian food doesn’t seem to be widely available on my travels (though post 489. ‘Georgia on my mind’ outlines a first encounter in Riga, Latvia). And did you know… Georgia just happens to be the oldest wine producing region in the world… so what’s not to like here.

Genatsvale has only been open since summer 2025, and on a quiet Thursday afternoon it provided the perfect setting for two people sharing a love of all things Georgia. The menu displayed outside the entrance already establishes authenticity… why succumb to dumbing down to the bland repetition of so many town centre eateries when you can have something genuine and different.

The wine list also testifies to a certain confidence in what they do… you’ll not find anything that isn’t originally sourced in Georgia… and those 8000 years of practice shine through in today’s bottles! That Qvervi Saperavi bottle just happened to be the most expensive of four reds also available by the glass… very important as you realise time is gently passing by and one bottle just isn’t going to be enough to do it justice.

As for the food, well there is the essential Georgian dumplings… the Kinkhali, made with a variety of fillings. We went for the beef & pork and the lamb (chicken and vegetarian options are available). Don’t forget to ask the waiter how to eat these things, or life might get a little messy. And be prepared to wait, and sample that wine, because these delights are prepared to order…

Pkali was something I hadn’t heard of before… large enough balls of pate in four flavours, but forget everything else you’ve experienced in life and just let the beetroot version take you to somewhere else altogether.

But even that was surpassed by the delicate balance of tastes involved with the Mushrooms in ketsi. The mushroom and melted cheese might just recalibrate your taste buds in ways you never thought possible.

And, getting back to that Qvervi Saperavi… somehow 5 or more hours seemed to pass by in no time. Yes, good company invites a sense of a complete loss of time, but good wine smoothes the whole process in ways that a cup of tea never seems to be quite enough.

Until we speak again, Georgia is on my mind. Ray Charles might well be talking about a place that fortunately stood up to the bullying of the Chief Narcissist of Untrustworthy Land, but I’m currently very interested in a very small plot of real estate right in the centre of my own city. Now, if anyone could also play that grand piano in one corner of the restaurant…

Georgia on my mind

On a recent trip to Riga, I have to admit the write-ups about Latvian cuisine may have been on the up… but still not gripping my taste buds and demanding my undivided attention. Though the local dark breads are dense but tasty enough to definitely be leaders in their particular league.

So, my very own personal guide to the city stepped in with a vote for Georgia. The name Alaverdi might be giving off an Italian vibe to the casual observer, but look a little closer and give yourself up to that ‘Taste of Georgia‘ hint at what could be. We’re early, so plenty of choice of tables…

In my limited experience, Georgian red wines are hidden gems overshadowed by the European heavyweights bordering the Mediterranean. A glance at the wine menu here (see in the previous ‘Taste of Georgia’ link) lets you know you’re encountering a country with a serious approach to its falling over water!

So, where to start when it comes to the food? Khinkhali is the Georgian way of doing dumplings; and when they come filled with veal and lamb who could possibly refuse? The visual and textural presentation may be something you wipe your hands on after a particularly messy encounter with a seafood dish, but don’t be put off by first impressions. However, the Dolma with Duck with rice, greens and spices, supplemented by pomegranate seeds in a light spicy sauce… this was a dish that does wonderfully messy things with your mind, not with your hands! Suffice to say, when Donald met Dolma (that’s Donald Duck, not the orange fart in America version) the world became an altogether better place.

A main event to savour would be a difficult challenge for any chef after that dolma sensation of a starter. But, the idea of Beef Tenderloin Medallions with potato gratin and demi-glace sauce; well, that certainly provided the pomegranate bridge from the first course to the main, with a further wow factor baked in. The Pork Neck Shashlik on lavash with vegetable caviar, red onion and satsebeli sauce gave the whole event further depth and breadth befitting a new country’s cuisine to add to my taste bud travels.

This had already developed into a meal you don’t want to see ending. My trusty guide was in the mood for dessert… a cheesecake with a difference of stewed in red wine cherries, spices and caramelised pistachio with a few raspberries on the side as a nod to healthier times.

Me, I’m not habitually inclined towards the dessert section of any menu, so it was time to add a Riga essential to my local experience… a glass of Riga Black Balsam… not for the faint-hearted. No, that isn’t an extra glass of wine as dessert this time… It’s the national drink of Latvia, more of a 45% proof affair, purely imbibed for medicinal purposes, of course… a herbaceous floral thing, with a liquorice, lime, ginger, mix and no doubt a hefty kick. Like Coca Cola very few people know its exact recipe. Unlike Coca Cola it’s best used for an after meal digestif, rather than a toilet bowl cleaner!

Until we speak again, Georgia is definitely still on my mind. With this taste of some of what the country has to offer, it might well be under my feet sometime soon!