Something is tickling the gastronomic funny bone in the heart of Cardiff city centre. Among the newer eateries the UK chain of Giggling Squid has arrived in these parts. The Hayes has a long tradition as one of Cardiff’s less spectacular shopping thoroughfares. But, of late, it’s gradually developing into the location for a number of interesting eateries.
[Well… Giovannis has been serving Italian foodies in ultra cramped conditions since 1983. The Ivy has been ripping off customers with its chain trading off a London original for a few years. And The Ivy Asia has been overloading the visual senses and underwhelming the quality of service for slightly less time. But Wahaca is worth more than one visit!]… other views may be accessed… somewhere else!
The kids can enjoy their hanging out in groups around the cheaper joints inside the St Davids Centre (just like pretty much every other shopping mall on Planet Consumerism). Meanwhile, on the outside this is where the grown-ups get to play.
And so it was that an impromptu family get together provided a great opportunity to go Thai, well… not exactly! For lovers of Thai food Giggling Squid has a satisfying proportion of the menu taken up with what might be thought of as traditional Thai food. But, for those of us that like our traditions to also provide a twist or two this is definitely one of those places to visit.
Don’t be put off by first appearances… this starter dish, if found along the footpaths by the local canal, might well resemble something you’d try to avoid stepping in! But… [drum roll needed here] the Crispy Slow Cooked Beef was beautifully tender on the inside, as the title would suggest. But, it’s also been finished off by a flame-thrower of sorts that give the outside a delightfully crispy edge. Served with a Thai salad of star fruit, coriander, carrot, jicama, lemongrass and dill, this was a burst of wonderful flavours to far exceed the ‘mess on a plate’ visual vibe.
Having recently been to another local favourite… The Potted Pig… I’m still wallowing in a state of admiration for what supreme sacrifice pigs give of their lives. So, oink oink Thai style was a clear attraction. The Chubby Cheek Pork was mouth watering++. Apparently, it’s soaked in ginger root, black pepper, and palm sugar, then slow cooked to sweet, tender perfection. That’s what they say on the menu, and I’m not going to argue with the chef on that one. Coconut Rice with a side of Tamarind Mushrooms & Greens ensured there would be no space for any deserts on this occasion. I appreciate some of you reading this post will be flabbergasted by such a sentiment, but a very drinkable Argentinian Malbec ensured that all other gastronomic requirements were admirably met!
Until we speak again, that Malbec serves as a tempter to the next stage in the development of The Hayes as a gastronomic centre of the city… here comes Gaucho… check out the next post for all things Argentinian as the world of nosh continues to thrive in Cardiff.
It’s the first weekend in July, so it must be time for a Cardiff Bay favourite…. the Cardiff International Food Festival (2023). The layout and lineup look very familiar and have been documented here before.
But, this time, I discovered it’s worth taking an early Sunday morning stroll before the festival opens up. Something ‘down the docks’ seems worth being aware of every weekend.
On the short pier that housed the Bosphoros Turkish restaurant many years ago, Coffee Co. has been quietly building an interesting presence in recent years. Now, I can add a recommendation for a hearty breakfast to accompany your cappuccino… while of course reading the Observer newspaper!
Until we speak again, a stroll back along the Dock feeder canal suggests the future is truly aromatic and crispy!
Jay Rayner once said… no, he’s definitely not the subject of the title. As the UK’s eminent restaurant critic, he often cited Cardiff as a place not to go to if you were in search of a fine dining experience.
Now, on the other hand, if you’re in search of chips, chains, and generally loading up for the alcoholic blowout… well, look no further!
But… he used to have one exception to the rule…
Located down in an old bank vault…
Well, who needs windows when the focus of your attention is on the vision of beauty laid out in front of you? Particularly when a great RiojaReserva is ready to whet your whistle… accompanied by a BlackPepperGnocchiwithTrufflesand Mushroom Sauce?
Forget looking out on the street… concentrate on that delicate suite of flavours that are performing a friendly assault on your taste buds. Sip some water, my friend, and clear your palate for further seduction.
Got the crabs? Never quite like the way this Italian influenced delight on the far side of that table will tickle places you didn’t expect to be disturbed. The Squid Ink & Brown Crab Ravioli is guaranteed to satisfy everything you’ve brought along for tantalising…
But wait… what’s that at the forefront of the picture? A pig that looks so much better in death than it ever did in life! Why, this is one porcine that lived a life determined to provide ultimate pleasure for its human recipient (and we’re not talking former UK Prime Ministers here!). 😉
Roastporkbelly, pig cheek, crackling that simply cracks with delight, and the ultimate in all-meat sausage action… quite the climactic experience. A dish to leave you snorting… maybe!
Until we speak again, The PottedPig provides that rare moment of tasting a few items on a short menu, but leaving you instantly wanting to try every other dish… just in case you’ve missed another of the ultimate experiences of joy.
Culinary Cardiff continues to challenge a historic reputation. A city with a taste for fast food and standard chain restaurants. It’s even widely recognised as the home of the street dedicated to ‘the chip’!
Other posts on this blog search for and support the many independent gastronomic delights the city has to offer. Now, it’s time to add the next entry… a place where Wales meets Spain. Step up Asador 44.
Quay Street may once have been the location where all manner of wines and foods could be offloaded directly from boats on the River Taff. That’s long ago, before a world-renowned rugby stadium was built on reclaimed land following a man-made rerouting of the river.
Nowadays, Quay Street is frequently close to water when the Cardiff weather is characteristically acquatic (i.e. often!). But good wines and foods can definitely still be found on this old thoroughfare by the discerning few who forsake the corporate pleasures of nearby St Mary Street.
A largely Spanish dominated wine list provided a wide selection (and price range) of the welcome Rioja grape, but the gaze was immediately arrested by the option of a ‘Paranormal’ Rioja. Would this be some kind of spiritual drinking experience? Perhaps it was an elaborate hoax giving the impression that there was wine in the bottle and we needed to use our powers of extrasensory perception while drinking from an empty glass. Well, I can report that it was a real and very ‘earthy’ version of a Rioja, somewhat lighter than the usual experience of this grape… but not that light that it became a supernatural experience!
As for the food, starters of grilled mackerel and grilled asparagus dishes were presented in the fashionable fine dining style… a possible means of drawing attention to the manufacture of the plate through acres of uninterrupted porcelain. However, both were mouth-wateringly good, and contrary to appearances contributed to a satisfying sense of fulfilment.
Neither of us were particularly drawn to what would be more Welsh-influenced plates of sirloin or rump steak. So, it’s a joint decision to go for the Welsh beef slow cooked and served up in a Spanish style… with beef infused rice and salsa verde. With a defined texture the meat performed that most satisfying of tricks by simply falling apart at the merest touch of the eating irons. Oh, and that Welsh influence with a Spanish twist also emerged through a tasty side of Olive Oil Chips… just dipping them in the beef was a taste not even Caroline Street can conjure up for its regular punters.
Until we speak again, England and France can continue their centuries old rivalry, but for Wales and Spain a fusion of love has been nicely set up at Asador 44!
Don’t be put off by a glimpse of the menu’s of the future… yes, technology is even invading the sensual pleasures of fine dining. No opportunities for a casual glance at a physical menu while passing by here… trust your instincts, sit down, and a digital menu will be provided. If you don’t like what you see simply get up and walk away… the staff won’t be offended, but you will have missed out on a wonderful treat!
For punters of an advanced age, when the waiter offers you a tablet its the menu… not to be mistaken for the cocktail you may be taking a few times a day under the care of your medical team!
But first, getting there… the location is Sorrento in southern Italy, and the final mode of travel is on foot through narrow tourist shopping alleyways. From the central square of Piazza Tasso take the narrow pedestrian Via San Cesario through to the even narrower Via Fuoro.
This destination requires that you ignore several other gastronomic temptations along the way. Just remember that patience rewards the brave as you arrive at the unpresupposing Fuoro 51… a restaurant and wine bar simply named by its number and the street!
An outside table is highly recommended for added people watching, though if you’re seeing people in your glass, you may have had one too many of the delicious local red wines…
Carpaccio sounds like something Italian car mechanics might do. In reality, it was invented in Venice in the 1960s as a way of presenting food very thinly sliced and raw. Put any preconceived food phobias to one side (you’re not in Japan after all!), and treat yourself to two of the most incredible apertisers…
The venisoncarpaccio is marinated in a spice mix, then smoked for added flavour, and served with purple fig sorbet, kefir, blueberries, and walnuts. This would definitely be part of my death-row final meal! By the way, that meal would have so many of my lifetime favourite courses I’ll be keeled over long before it was completed.
Then, in the interests of balance (specifically for BBC viewers), there is a mouthwatering swordfishcarpaccio, smoked, and served with toasted almonds, raspberry, and hibiscus. It’s my newfound belief that swordfish are queueing up off the Sorrento coast to be auditioned for this type of performance.
I need to make the statement of the obvious at this point… takeyourtime, you’ve entered into culinary heaven. But, when you’re ready for the main course, having spent hours distracted and meandering around that tablet, the animal kingdom provided a couple of simply delicious representatives in the form of a wildboarpasta dish, and a slow cooked vealcheek with the most delicate versions of mash. A shared side of roastedMediterraneanvegetables added more colour to the glorious palette of our table…
Until we speak again, it appears that hibiscus is not just that rare flavour you might find in tea! Vegetarians and vegans do come up with some interesting ideas… for enhancing proper food!
Like many humans, fish present me with something of a personal dilemma… sometimes they can look so damn good, but alas, in the end, you just have to follow the lead of cats… and eat them. But, before you do, it helps to pay people who know how to present them for eating. This was certainly the least of our problems on a recent trip to southern Italy.
Take Naples, for example. It may well have been a city totally consumed by its recent football success as Italian champions for the first time since the Maradona infused party of 1990.
But not even that could diminish the opportunity for several acquatic species to leap onto our plates in search of a fulfilling end of life! Even if it was a wobbly table in a back street port district car park. Fried calamari, octopus, grilled calamari, fully tooled-up squid, and more docile looking swordfish were simply leaping off the menu to accompany the local white wine.
Taking a boat trip across the Bay of Naples around the Amalfi coast in order to maybe witness dinner in its more usual and natural habitat proved a futile challenge. Ultimately, the coastline is far too distracting.
In the end, it seems the best place to see these fellas is on a plate a few hundred metres above sea level. Ravello provided the ideal place to sample some more octopus. The location also provides breathtaking views out across a coast that could well be the starting point of your dinner’s own journey.
Meanwhile, a boat trip back around the peninsula to Sorrento offers plenty of man-made structures from which you may wish to indulge in dangling your ‘string on a stick’ trap for catching the more stupid of local fish.
While the adventurous were finding ways to source their own sustenance, we preferred to respect the more interesting and apertising welcome offered by a trinity of tuna, grilledcalamari, and swordfishpasta…
Until we speak again, carnivores need not worry. Should you drift on by the amazing coastline of southernItaly, you will be catered for with the same vigour and probably a collective sigh of relief from the local fish population!
OAP… bollocks. Even Juno would have recognised that the recent letter indicating eligibility for a State Pension was sent to the wrong address. In her estimation, her servant might be an idiot, but surely not an old idiot!
But, hold on… this getting old malarkey maybe isn’t so bad after all! It all depends on where you get to do it, I guess. You may have the misfortune to be in a damp sleeping bag spread out on the gravel floor of a farm out building, with a tractor tyre for a pillow. Hang on… that was a previous European tour in the destitute years of teenage invincibility after a never-ending Austrian thunderstorm somewhere near Saltzburg. Whoever said that was a welcoming country to visit?
Now that the seventh decade has reached its own middle age years, it’s time to welcome an unwelcome milestone with a bit more style! A villa apartment with a fabulous view will do…
Particularly if they make their own wine and olive oil!
Then, all that’s needed is a restaurant with great food and a table with one of the best views in the world…
Until we speak again, Ravello high above the Amalfi coast in SouthernItaly is as good as any place to set the tone for the older years.
Ah, this is more like it… so a couple of cats went to Bath!
At times, the sheer volume of tourist visitors to this internationally recognised city of historic and cultural heritage can be overwhelming. So, pick your timing for a visit carefully. Instructive street signage combined with an unusual welcome from a top-hatted bird might just help set a favourable tone!
But I’m sure what you, and millions of others, came for was undoubtedly a glimpse of the Royal Crescent. Always good to spend a few moments dreaming of what is and what can never be, I guess!
But climbing that hill while taking in a large dose of culture and history will surely require some sustenance. Maybe a chance to stretch the finances to indulge those fantasies of wealth. Well, fear not, award winning nosh is close to hand, not to ignore the tempting wine selection hidden behind the restaurant name… Corkage comes with great prior reviews, so let’s give it a look…
Amongst a wide range of liquid temptations, an enticing invitation from Puglia takes centre stage. With a little nudge from the wine waiter the more expensive vintage is ordered, in a nod to the opulent surroundings of this whole trip.
But the question is what to have with it? Maybe ‘spiced sweet potatoes with pickled red onion, lime and sumac yoghurt’ sounds a mystifying enough temptation. Then again, ‘frogslegs pan fried with grilled baby gem, lemon breadcrumbs and satay sauce’ would at least demonstrate the British openness to all things European, in the ongoing shambles of Brexitland. Then again, ‘colley fillet with wild rice, pan choi, tarragon hollandaise and chilli oil’ keeps swimming into vision. But the wine choice is red, so perhaps that ‘lamb rump with smoked mashed potato, roast parsnip and coffee jus’ is what’s really standing up to be counted here. But, wait a minute, ‘rabbit ragu with tagliatelle and mustard’ also comes hopping into view.
Decisions, decisions… with a further range of other tempting options putting up their hands for attention across a small but extraordinary menu. Then it comes to you… there is that most wondrous of phrases in the English language… ‘All of the above‘! And just then, you’re helpfully reminded that this restaurant does a small plates approach to dining. Not to be confused with tapas, no, not that small. Something that perfectly solves the ‘all of the above’ dilemma…
Such perfectly proportioned finery may even permit space to encourage surprise and more than a little admiration from a certain US based dessert aficionado. Why not bring on the burnt Basque cheesecake with mulled wine plums, garçon! After all, I’ve given in to more of these dessert temptations during this spring season than I have across the previous decade. However, I don’t think anything more than the world’s smallest spoonful of that chocolate affair, even with its rhubarb ganache, miso cream and crispy caramel, will pass these lips though.
Such a fine and delicate dining experience demands a post-meal walk; which is beautifully accommodated by this place of history and intrigue…
A comfortable place to rest is the next item on the itinerary, preferably with a seductive location for breakfast. Got that covered as well, as long as you’re not spooked by a strange equine companion closely observing you…
Until we speak again, perhaps there is a near perfect cappuccino to be found more easily than a recent US quest! Step forward Cortado, near Pulteney Bridge… and chill (return and repeat)!
Step 1: You’re on holiday, so leave the usual routines behind. This isn’t just about casually checking what you’ve got in the fridge. You’re travelling to a special place, so remember you’re eating for your home country’s reputation… go for it and don’t hold back!
Step 2: Choose somewhere that’s well worth devouring… somewhere that offers a mind boggling range of culinary delights, whether you have any idea what you’re eating or not.
Step 3: If you’re including posh dining joints, check in advance if you need to book tables or not. You don’t want to create an international diplomatic incident when you turn up hell bent on eating only to be asked if you’ve booked a table. You know you’re eating the food, not the table… but if you’ve already been drinking UK-style traveller industrial quantities of alcohol your hosts may not appreciate any nationalistic cliches or sense of humour.
Step 4: Do some prior research and plan a route (however rough it may be). Don’t start with the first eating joint on the edge of town and work your way along the street. You may find you’re on a foreign version of Cardiff’s Caroline Street… where everything is a local variation of chips+!
Step 5: Snacking between meals is fine… you’re on holiday for ‘F’s sake’!
Step 6: Do some prior research on establishment opening times. If you’ve had the aforementioned UK pisshead level of lotion, don’t turn up to evening restaurants in the morning and brunch places later in the day!
Step 7: If you find yourself in New Orleans this is how to do it…
Who needs breakfast when brunch provides timing that better accommodates last night’s festivities? Two Chicks Cafe in the Warehouse District provides a perfectly good starting point to the day, particularly if you want to line your stomach with Papa’s French Toast with a side of Bacon.
Keep Google Maps to hand, as this place is a well disguised challenge for the casual unprepared customer. Don’t forget to have the freshly squeezed OJ as a psychological trick for believing you’re doing something healthy to kick off the festivities.
Don’t delay, you’ve a relatively short walk to the Streetcar Cafe on St Charles Avenue where something called Biscuit & Gravy will mess with any non–American gastronomic sensibilities. Also, remember to wear loose clothing, as most American menus are designed to promote a larger version of yourself on exit than the one that entered!
The Palace Cafe on Canal Street is conveniently just around the corner, as you don’t want to be wasting too much time travelling between courses, do you? The signature Crabmeat Cheesecake can always be washed down with the addition of Turtle Soup… but remember to keep room for the Catfish Pecan. After all, it’s not every day you get such an opportunity.
Dessert anyone? You might need something to complement that strange French White Wine you’ve never heard of before! Louisiana Strawberries with whippedcream or a combination of Ice Cream flavours may help to settle down any initial rumblings from the digestive region.
You’re on the boundary of the French Quarter, so perhaps now would be as good a time as any to visit the historic (well, by US timescales) The Court of Two Sisters!
Buffet layouts don’t normally float my boat at any time of day… something about preferring food freshly cooked to order. But, a historic entrance to a courtyard setting like this with a Jazz trio accompaniment just demands that certain personal culinary judgements be left outside and picked up again on departure.
A classic Mimosa provides a basis for the relaxed enjoyment of a cold buffet followed by a hot buffet of Louisiana standards of grits, jambalaya, crawfishetouffee … not forgetting to top up your Turtle Soup levels at the same time.
Now may just be the time for a good walk… so I suggest a hike across the French Quarter to Bywater along the banks of the Mississippi River to Elizabeth’s where Korean Brussels Sprouts will provide a gear change before you get back to another variation on the Catfish theme with something entitled Bayou Breakfast. A side of Callas (me neither? but it’s worth a re-visit) will no doubt further extend your culinary range… nothing like some deep-fried concoction with a sugary maple syrup for accompanying any type of egg with your catfish (you’re in New Orleans, so of course, this all makes sense… well, to the locals at least!).
At least now you’re geographically out on a limb, and probably physically wondering whether your limbs are going to support your weight. So a lengthy walk back in the direction of the city should be quite timely. Do find one of the few benches in Crescent Park if you need a lie down for a minute or two.
After a brief rest reviewing your evening meal bookings, why not stop off for a chocolate heaven interlude at Piety & Desire over in the Garden District? The produce is locally sourced and handmade, and what a selection… even including the green one with a layer of duck fat! As you may have read in a previous post… the cappuccino isn’t that bad either.
Ready for an evening meal? It’s probably best to head over to the Treme/7th Ward boundary for a shift of gear from Deep South US to European fayre. The Green Room offers up an eclectic mix of Slavic originated dishes in a bar/restaurant vibe. The Blini Trio starter is of particular note, as it provided a mixed burst of different tastes with a much needed lightness compared to the entree Slavic Sampler. Kielbasa, kapusta, golubtsy, and pierogi all provided interesting flavours, but this meal is definitely a heavyweight designed for the demands of a colder climate.
Back in the French Quarter, a beguiling range of options are on offer, but if we’re gradually climbing a gastronomic ladder, it’s possibly going to be Orleans Grapevine Wine Bar & Bistro for the next stop. It seems timely to go for an ArugulaSalad at this point in the day, at least as an appetiser before diving into that Roasted Duck Breast and Lamb Chop combination of main dishes. The local Louisiana Strawberries make a second appearance decoratively accompanying a Creme Brûlée, and an after dinner Port for no other reason than I’m being coaxed against my better judgement into the world of desserts.
Muriel’s on the corner of Jackson Square just along from the cathedral brings us back to some quintessential Louisiana dishes done in what claims to be an historic setting (Note to locals: history to a European goes back further than last month!). Boudin Egg Rolls provided a delicately spiced appetiser that made me wonder why it’s taken me so long to sample this dish. The Oregon Pinot Noir complemented this dish perfectly. As for Shrimp & Grits,this is a dish of ubiquitous familiarity, but here it’s done with a delicate twist that adds a higher level of subtlety, adding some much-needed flavour to the grits. Switching to a German Riesling was definitely a good move with this entree.
Until we speak again, still got room for more? I hope so, as you need to check out the previous Dining Fine NOLA-Style post, because August Restaurant on Tchoupitoulas Street in the Central Business District offers the pinnacle of the New Orleans eating experience (other pinnacles may be available!).
If you’ve eaten all of this in one day the only question that comes to mind is… what’s wrong with you? I guess you’ll be too full to answer that one, and are likely to be focused on what’s for brunch tomorrow!
The long deceased inspiration for this 10-year blog could just be spinning in her grave… if such a thing existed. For here I am, back in NewOrleans sampling Catfish in some of its diverse yet delicious presentations. And I’m really fussy and limited in the types of fish I generally eat.
I can sense Juno’s paw tapping me on the chin as she informs me that cats are cats, superior in all ways; fish are fish, purely for eating. But mixing the two is strictly, well, unusual to say the least.
First stop was ‘Elizabeths‘ in the Bywater district of the city. This is a venue not visited in previous sojourns to the BigEasy, so this was definitely on the list of new places to try on this occasion.
How do you like your eggs with your Catfish? Not a question I had anticipated tackling until arriving here! Then there is a side of something called Calas, which has the ability to stop you in your tracks and ask you how you’ve lived this long without sampling such a delight. This is a Creole deep fried rice, eggs, and sugar mix complete with honey-infused dip. Not for the calorie-obsessed diner… but then again, hardly anything in New Orleans is!
The next variation was provided by a place frequented as a favourite whenever I mosey on down the Mississippi…the Palace Cafe. We can’t avoid the signature dish of CrabmeatCheesecake, this time with a side of TurtleSoup. OK, I get your indignation… but these guys exist for a reason, right? But the CatfishPecan, now, that’s a new taste altogether. The sweetness of the pecans perfectly complimented the savoury flavour of the Catfish.
Look out aquatic culture… I might need to reappraise my relationship to eating fish… which is something I’m sure Juno would have delighted in, except for the suspicious influence of cat-infused fish dishes.
Until we speak again, the DoobieBrothers song comes to mind… Catfish are jumping, that paddle wheel thumping… Black Water for those of you unacquainted. Check out the track, as it captures New Orleans, Louisiana, very succinctly.