Historic Norwich

Yes, York and Bath and Edinburgh are fabulous visits if you’re looking to indulge in historic reflection (all covered in previous posts). However, our islands making up the UK are steeped in history. The city of Norwich is a showcase example of what can be gained given the foresight and will to preserve our heritage.

With the Maids Head Hotel, Norwich lays claim to the oldest of its kind in the UK.

Its Winepress restaurant also provides a great option for dining while reflecting on that history…

Just a few steps, and you’re back many centuries on Elm Hill...

The wonderful maze of huts making up Norwich Market are also flanked by the Guildhall as a fine example of past civic pride…

And for those who enjoy a religious veneer to their travels, it is yet another city that boasts two fine cathedrals amongst the very numerous preserved churches throughout the city centre…

Claims to be its oldest pub (Adam & Eve) seem to come with a qualification, but the opportunity to prompt historic reflection with a fine local beer proves an unqualified success…

Until we speak again, if it’s history you want, Norwich has it covered… even in your hotel bathroom…

Atmospheric Firenze!

History, culture, atmosphere, the home of the RenaissanceFlorence has it all in abundance…

Who’d have thought it was the place to devour a whole cow as well? From the stomach as a burger from a hole in the wall…

To a high-end experience of a slow cooked cheek…

Then there is the quintessential Florentine Steak. Brought to your table prior to cooking. All that’s missing was a name… let’s call her Daisy for polite dining…

Until we speak again, go to Florence and be drawn into an atmospheric experience and a feast of consumption…

They did what?

Eating out is always a treat to be savoured. But just occasionally, it’s raised to another level when you get to ponder the question… they did what?

Restaurante Lebeche in Santa Cruz (Tenerife) is definitely one of those moments.

Arriving there a few minutes before opening already provided me with that rare few moments of being in my own private restaurant. I was greeted by name, from the reservation made earlier, and briefly enjoyed being outnumbered by the attentive staff.

My appetite dictated that I was going to eat light this evening. The Prawn Carpaccio may resemble a contemporary art installation, but it also provided the ideal starter of a delicate mix of flavours.

I was thinking salad as a main course. However, a combination of tomato, watermelon, ice cream, and a topping of pistachio certainly wasn’t what I was thinking. Ensalada Lebeche is quite something to behold… a dish that asks you to double-check that you’re still on planet Earth. Other worldly definitely describes this dish… in a very good way.

Now, I’m not one who usually indulges in the desert end of the menu. That local white wine needs my full attention. But I’d seen from previous reviews that this place does something original in its presentation of Tiramisu. Eating light has the advantage of leaving space for the unexpected. And was this Tiramisu unexpected…

Yes, your eyes are not deceiving you… the gorgeously balanced dish arrived in a cafetiere!

Until we speak again, it’s nice to identify a wonderful restaurant while gazing down on the street below from your private sun terrace…

Dying is no longer required!

If you’ve heard the saying… I died and went to heaven… well, dying is no longer obligatory! The good news is that you just need to go to Portugal!

If proof of heaven were needed, then Mensagem Rooftop Restaurant in Lisbon puts forward an application based on a starter of Veal Carpaccio with a Syrah red wine from the nearby Beira region…

Not yet convinced? Faro quickly steps up with a main of Arroz Negro (black rice with cuttlefish ink, and crispy squid) accompanied by a robust Tomato & Roast Pepper Salad. The local Algarve wines provide an extremely dry white, aptly named ‘So Blanc‘…

What do you mean, where’s the dessert? This is Portugal, where the best dessert is widely available throughout the day. Pasteis da Nata are what Portugal was invented for, didn’t you know? Best taken with a proper cappuccino side…

Until we speak again, whatever your version of heaven is… I’m sticking with this one!

Devouring history

History didn’t end when us white Europeans colonised the already populated lands we know of as America. But we do occasionally have an arrogant tendency to look on these parts as too young by comparison if they try to claim historical context.

Take the Treme district of New Orleans, for example. The widely recognised birthplace of jazz also happens to be the oldest Black neighbourhood in the USA. 212 years and counting is good going. You may not find any ruined centuries old castles here, but if you open your mind, then walking these streets inspires imagination.

As a neighbourhood, Treme likes to wear its pride prominently on its sleeve. History emerges from a wealth of creative people and culture with memories that reverberate down the generations.

Alongside a thirst for knowledge all of this walking can generate an appetite. Talking of which… Dooky Chase’s is right on hand and remains a must for Southern Fried Chicken at its best… particularly with sides of stewed okra & mustard greens.

For many visitors to NOLA, the French Quarter just may be all they see or struggle with their vision after many hours imbibing on Bourbon Street. Pre-inebriation historical appreciation can still be indulged, for example, a stroll by what claims to be the oldest bar in the US (Lafitte’s Blacksmith Shop Bar). But, look forward and look up in order to appreciate that mix of classic French/Spanish architectural styles.

And when that stomach rumbles to a beckoning tune, you’re spoiled for choice with fabulous restaurants populating the area. On this auspicious occasion, Antoine’s Restaurant on St Louis Street provides a perfect blend of historical setting and fine dining.

It’s a shame that eating the full menu wasn’t physically an option, so I had to be satisfied with a cup of Seafood Gumbo, Grilled Pompano Fish, and their signature Pecan Bread Pudding. An armtwisting got me to accept a French Medoc off the burgundy list. But don’t let the erstwhile ‘enforcer’ know I said it was a great choice.

And so to the Garden District, with all its horticultural finery on display. There is no shortage of historic opulence here. Just let your imagination cast its own spells as you wonder who lived in these great residences over the years. A few have their historic occupants named on metal plaques to indulge your curiosity.

And, any district affording the donation of the following building as a public library isn’t doing too bad for itself.

Still feeling peckish after a mesmerising meander around ‘the Garden‘? Why not make a reservation (months in advance) for the iconic Commanders Palace.

Once again, the food was otherworldly… just don’t ask about our experience of the service as it failed to match the incredibly high expectations we brought to the table. The Turtles were sure doing what they did best… with the help of an ostentatious splash au Sherry at the table! The Chargrilled Jerk Spiced Duroc Pork Chop was simply steak-like in its presence and undoubtedly the best chop I’ve ever tasted… with special thanks to the provider, I hope they enjoyed the life dedicated to this moment.

And, yes, he who doesn’t often do deserts was diving into another Creole Bread Pudding Souffle affair… this time with warm whiskey cream.

Until we speak again, dive into your history with a passion equal to your culinary fascinations. But beware of unexpected pyrotechnics… when they ask if you like your food ‘hot’, this wasn’t what I had in mind.

Skydining

Yrs, you read that right… as my skydiving days are definitely a few decades ago! Funchal is all about looking up. Surrounded by mountains, with steep hills very much in evidence throughout the city itself, elevation is key to the whole experience.

For the fabulous tropical gardens of Monte or the botanical gardens of Jardim, there is only one way to travel…

And the payoff is every bit as high as the altitude…

The amount of climbing can be hungry and thirsty work. So, step forward the Galaxia Skybar and restaurant in the Savoy Palace Hotel to maintain that elevated theme…

A la Carte fine dining comes with an elevated price tag… but limpets with seaweed, baby lamb with truffles and yam, and all sorts of local produce done with unique twists create the unique experience; and tuna and egg never tasted quite like this at Chez Juno in Cardiff!

Desert just needed to be an extra glass of a particularly fine Portuguese red wine from the vineyards of the Douro region. But caution is needed when taking in all you survey after a particularly fine meal with delicious wine…

Until we speak again, it’s back to the chill and gloom of late winter, tinged with the memories of a taste of summer in February (yes, I know it’s always summer in February in Australia!)…

The Sorting Room

In these days of dreadful corporate scandal, it’s good to have a positive post office story! [For any readers outside of the UK just Google ‘UK Post Office Scandal & Fujitsu‘, grab your popcorn, and settle in for a real life horror story!].

Meanwhile, back in the land of minor horror stories (i.e. Cardiff), a place where a good few fabulous old Victorian buildings are left to rot presumably until they fall down of their own accord… Listed Building or not! The former Head Post Office was completed in 1897 built in The Dutch Revival style. It ceased its function as a post office in 1983, briefly became a British Telecom hub for bureaucrats before those with great power and little imagination decided it should be left empty for 20+ years.

Now, as the Parkgate Hotel, a great building breathes new life; and another presumably ideal location for a bland office or multi-storey car park has thwarted the ideals of the town planners. [As a former town planner I say three cheers to that!].

Stepping off a damp Westgate Street into the reception area you’re greeted with a large and brightly lit welcome, at the centre of which is a modern chandelier. Well, I guess even the riches they robbed off poor innocent postmasters and postmistresses probably couldn’t stretch to restoring the original!

The restaurant off to the right side of the reception area is aptly named The Sorting Room in keeping with a previous use. Where’s the imagination? those downtrodden town planners yell at me! There’s always room for a nostalgic reflection of past uses, my dears; not everything has to be in pursuit of destroying historical reference!

But, as those innocent victims of corporate greed and institutional incompetence contemplate their years in bland cells, behind bars, pleading their innocence, what can us luckier mortals expect? Well, the spacious wood panelled room provides an excellent setting for sipping a nice Rioja while perusing the interesting menu. Not bread and water rationing for us, oh no!

Smoked Mediterranean Octopus and Penderyn Single Malt Welsh Whiskey Cured Salmon for starters. Former upstanding post office people might well be thinking what they can spend their viciously hard earned compensation on (if they lived to see it, that is). Well, a little bit of squid ink sponge, chorizo, tempura samphire, roasted garlic and herb oil will help the octopus to dance delicately across the taste buds. As for the salmon… Brecon vodka creme fraiche, deep fried avocado, pickled cucumber and a fresh mini loaf are set to tempt those beauties of the deep to swim back upstream into the catchments of emporia of fine dining.

Yes, my reader… if you’re of the pile it high and shovel it down (i.e. all-you-can-eat buffet) bent, look-away now. This is one of those strange places where large areas of porcelain (slate/wood/whatever the current fashion) are on show. This is where incredible flavours blend to satisfy exquisite tastes, leaving you more than fulfilled by the experience.

Good service can be identified by the time they allow between courses… though clearly not the length of time the post office/governments of the day/Fujitsu had in mind when torturing innocent workers who had dedicated their lives to serving their local communities.

So for the main event… I’m not sure what noises octopus and salmon make, but it was definitely time for an Oink & Quack show. Slow Cooked Pork Belly & Crackling and a Pan Roasted Garlic & Thyme British Chicken Breast would just have to offer up their sacrifices for this particular table… with a shared side of Thyme & Honey Roasted Root Vegetables… For the record, the belly pork arrived with toffee apple, smoked carrot puree, chorizo jam, sticky red cabbage, Pommes Anna, and Welsh cider sauce, and it was definitely slow cooked… but not as slow as the aforementioned post office employees would recognise as the definition of the word ‘slow’. The chicken had to make do with being brined in Welsh beer, with Tatws Pum Munud, confit onions, leek and bacon lardons, crispy chicken crackling, Welsh rarebit, confit chicken croquette, and Glamorgan ale jus.

Now, if you were left to rot in a jail cell for something you were entirely innocent of, just so those higher ups in society don’t lose a little face (or a few quid for their daily fine dining excursions), you might well be wondering how do they get all of this stuff onto the plate? Well, somehow they do, and even find room for the pan of gravy to reside by the awaiting nosh. Amazing!

Until we speak again, who needs the pan pipes to serenade away such a great dining experience when you can improvise your own instrument? Just don’t forget your humanity, and save the water and the mini loaf of bread for the poor unfortunates who had their whole lives stolen from them by a bunch of lying, cheating, disgraceful and despicable rich and entitled b*$t@*%s.

A Gaucho in Cardiff

Once upon a time in Patagonia, some Welsh folk settled many thousands of miles from home. It must have taken them some time to get there. But, come on, cariad, why did it take over 150 years to send the indigenous produce back to the homeland?

Whisper it quietly… you don’t really need a tri-walker and walking stick for rounding up prime steer along this part of The Hayes in Cardiff. A restaurant booking will now do the trick nicely…

I guess some meals are designed for the outdoors in sunshine. But, come on, this is the centre of Cardiff, not the Mediterranean! Even in nearly record-breaking September sunshine, a serious meal in Cardiff requires some dimming of the light, a darker backdrop to provide the right atmosphere…

So much for the hype of a new dynamic eating place arriving in the city (albeit more than 20 years after London), show us what you’ve got to offer Argentina.

Well, for one thing, the menu is reasonably small… something regulars to this blog will know I count as a positive characteristic… hopefully equating to focus and quality. Me, I can’t resist an indigenous starter dish of empanadas, this choice filled with Wagyu beef. These knock Cornish pasties into a cocked hat. Crispy pastry surrounds tangy flavoured melt in the mouth textured beef.

As for my co-conspirator on the night… sautéed prawns with deliciously hot tomato and garlic came in the skillet that their whole life was designed and lived to meet…

So far… excellent! Then came the test of a good or a not so good restaurant. It may be the first week of official opening to us ordinary punters… but even a really good restaurant doesn’t have to get everything perfect immediately. It’s how they respond when they get it wrong that counts.

Because the starters were that good we took quite some time tasting and discussing the experience. Perhaps the kitchen didn’t get the memo… don’t prepare the main course until the punters are ready!! So, semi-cold steaks and tepid chips arrived the second we were putting the starter cutlery down. Sorry hombre, this place isn’t even your average price… so expectations of quality are high.

With little or no fuss, the staff apologised for the error and promised to prepare the whole meal from fresh immediately. What is more, they recognised we had a little extra time to wait, and our bottle of fabulous Malbec was fast emptying. So, again without fuss, a second bottle was brought to our table… on the house! Strange how the same fabulous wine tastes even better when it’s free…

When the freshly cooked fillet steaks arrived the wait was definitely worth the time spent sipping at that smooth velvety wine. Yes, the plates look big. But, these are the usual 225g steaks. Here they also have to accommodate the 400g steak punters. People for whom one meal needs to last heaven knows how long. Gaucho’s are out on the range long hours, for all I know. As for me, you can keep your horseback-bull-lassoing affair, I’ll take 225g of Argentina’s finest and definitely come back for more another time…

Until we speak again, a certain blog site informed me that Juno’s View is 10 years old this very week! That free bottle of Malbec served a more than satisfying purpose after all.

The Giggling Squid

Something is tickling the gastronomic funny bone in the heart of Cardiff city centre. Among the newer eateries the UK chain of Giggling Squid has arrived in these parts. The Hayes has a long tradition as one of Cardiff’s less spectacular shopping thoroughfares. But, of late, it’s gradually developing into the location for a number of interesting eateries.

[Well… Giovannis has been serving Italian foodies in ultra cramped conditions since 1983. The Ivy has been ripping off customers with its chain trading off a London original for a few years. And The Ivy Asia has been overloading the visual senses and underwhelming the quality of service for slightly less time. But Wahaca is worth more than one visit!]… other views may be accessed… somewhere else!

The kids can enjoy their hanging out in groups around the cheaper joints inside the St Davids Centre (just like pretty much every other shopping mall on Planet Consumerism). Meanwhile, on the outside this is where the grown-ups get to play.

And so it was that an impromptu family get together provided a great opportunity to go Thai, well… not exactly! For lovers of Thai food Giggling Squid has a satisfying proportion of the menu taken up with what might be thought of as traditional Thai food. But, for those of us that like our traditions to also provide a twist or two this is definitely one of those places to visit.

Don’t be put off by first appearances… this starter dish, if found along the footpaths by the local canal, might well resemble something you’d try to avoid stepping in! But… [drum roll needed here] the Crispy Slow Cooked Beef was beautifully tender on the inside, as the title would suggest. But, it’s also been finished off by a flame-thrower of sorts that give the outside a delightfully crispy edge. Served with a Thai salad of star fruit, coriander, carrot, jicama, lemongrass and dill, this was a burst of wonderful flavours to far exceed the ‘mess on a plate’ visual vibe.

Having recently been to another local favourite… The Potted Pig… I’m still wallowing in a state of admiration for what supreme sacrifice pigs give of their lives. So, oink oink Thai style was a clear attraction. The Chubby Cheek Pork was mouth watering++. Apparently, it’s soaked in ginger root, black pepper, and palm sugar, then slow cooked to sweet, tender perfection. That’s what they say on the menu, and I’m not going to argue with the chef on that one. Coconut Rice with a side of Tamarind Mushrooms & Greens ensured there would be no space for any deserts on this occasion. I appreciate some of you reading this post will be flabbergasted by such a sentiment, but a very drinkable Argentinian Malbec ensured that all other gastronomic requirements were admirably met!

Until we speak again, that Malbec serves as a tempter to the next stage in the development of The Hayes as a gastronomic centre of the city… here comes Gaucho… check out the next post for all things Argentinian as the world of nosh continues to thrive in Cardiff.

The sublime pig

Jay Rayner once said… no, he’s definitely not the subject of the title. As the UK’s eminent restaurant critic, he often cited Cardiff as a place not to go to if you were in search of a fine dining experience.

Now, on the other hand, if you’re in search of chips, chains, and generally loading up for the alcoholic blowout… well, look no further!

But… he used to have one exception to the rule…

Located down in an old bank vault…

Well, who needs windows when the focus of your attention is on the vision of beauty laid out in front of you? Particularly when a great Rioja Reserva is ready to whet your whistle… accompanied by a Black Pepper Gnocchi with Truffles and Mushroom Sauce?

Forget looking out on the street… concentrate on that delicate suite of flavours that are performing a friendly assault on your taste buds. Sip some water, my friend, and clear your palate for further seduction.

Got the crabs? Never quite like the way this Italian influenced delight on the far side of that table will tickle places you didn’t expect to be disturbed. The Squid Ink & Brown Crab Ravioli is guaranteed to satisfy everything you’ve brought along for tantalising…

But wait… what’s that at the forefront of the picture? A pig that looks so much better in death than it ever did in life! Why, this is one porcine that lived a life determined to provide ultimate pleasure for its human recipient (and we’re not talking former UK Prime Ministers here!). 😉

Roast pork belly, pig cheek, crackling that simply cracks with delight, and the ultimate in all-meat sausage action… quite the climactic experience. A dish to leave you snorting… maybe!

Until we speak again, The Potted Pig provides that rare moment of tasting a few items on a short menu, but leaving you instantly wanting to try every other dish… just in case you’ve missed another of the ultimate experiences of joy.