Dundee (without the cake)

Shipbuilding, whaling, jute, journalism, bridges, creative design, and dolphins… what’s not to like about the fabulous city of Dundee.

Well, the whales bit is a stretch these days! But, according to the informative Verdant Works Museum based in an old jute mill, it’s whale oil that led Dundee to be the centre of the world for the jute industry (until India eventually took over).

At the time, Dundee was known as ‘She Town‘ because the women made up the majority of the paid workforce… poorly paid by men, of course. But apparently, they held their own in Victorian drunkenness and misdemeanour statistics.

Then there is journalism… a tradition commemorated in the central square by – of all characters – Desperate Dan & Minnie the Minx

Most recently, the creative design reinvention has been recognised in the iconic V&A Museum (the first outside of London). An essential element of the building is apparently based on the cliffs of the Scottish coastline…

Then there are those all-important bridges across the River Tay. The sweep of the Tay Railway Bridge has been an emblem of the city back to Victorian times. With the Tay Road Bridge or more recent addition…

Until we speak again, Scotland’s forgotten gem on the east coast has long been on my list. The wait has been well worth it. Even the locals came out to provide a welcome…

Hidden treasures

City centres invariably have to cater for the masses. If it’s gems you’re looking for, then head to where the discerning people go… the leafy suburbs.

Even though I’ve known it in my head, it’s taken quite some time for me to venture into the quiet Victorian terraced streets of Pontcanna in my home city of Cardiff. Home to at least three of the city’s finest dining establishments.

If it’s useful boxes, you need to be ticking, then Thomas by Tom Simmons will probably fill your page. A restaurant developed by a proud Welshman, tick. Quiet and leafy surroundings, tick.

A menu focused on quality rather than quality (with a tilt towards excellent Welsh produce), tick.

Tasty beef tartar starter with flavoursome bread and olives, tick.

Sumptuous Beef Fillet and a delicate Lamb Chop, tick.

A Spanish wine from the Ribera del Duero estates to simply die for, tick.

Finished off with a smooth Penderyn Welsh Whisky, tick.

Until we speak again, don’t tell the masses, but Pontcanna has more than this hidden treaure to be luring discerning folk into the quiet backstreets.

Meditative contemplation

Once upon a time, I travelled often to Norwich for work purposes. As well as sampling some of the previous post’s mention of its history, there was one particular oasis of tranquillity, the Plantation Garden

Most visitors and a good few locals may be completely unaware of this beautifully quiet corner tucked away behind the Roman Catholic cathedral. The garden was created out of an old chalk quarry in the first half of the 19th century.

For me, it was always a place to quietly prepare or reflect on the consultancy work project of the time. The gentle sound of the ornate fountain greatly enhances the meditative qualities of this amazing space.

Until we speak again, years further on, I can honestly say that all of those precious elements continue to aid contemplation. Staying chilled!

Historic Norwich

Yes, York and Bath and Edinburgh are fabulous visits if you’re looking to indulge in historic reflection (all covered in previous posts). However, our islands making up the UK are steeped in history. The city of Norwich is a showcase example of what can be gained given the foresight and will to preserve our heritage.

With the Maids Head Hotel, Norwich lays claim to the oldest of its kind in the UK.

Its Winepress restaurant also provides a great option for dining while reflecting on that history…

Just a few steps, and you’re back many centuries on Elm Hill...

The wonderful maze of huts making up Norwich Market are also flanked by the Guildhall as a fine example of past civic pride…

And for those who enjoy a religious veneer to their travels, it is yet another city that boasts two fine cathedrals amongst the very numerous preserved churches throughout the city centre…

Claims to be its oldest pub (Adam & Eve) seem to come with a qualification, but the opportunity to prompt historic reflection with a fine local beer proves an unqualified success…

Until we speak again, if it’s history you want, Norwich has it covered… even in your hotel bathroom…

Less is more

So the cliche goes… but for a good reason. Regulars here will know I like a short and focused menu when enjoying a good restaurant. Buenos Aires Argentine Steakhouse in Chiswick, west London hits the spot perfectly.

I’m not counting, but I wouldn’t be surprised if they had more Malbec red wines than starters or mains (but not combined)…

However, what they also have are some fabulous Padron Peppers (with Malbec salt, of course); nicely continuing my Padron Peppers World Tour following a recent revisit to Alegoria restaurant in Barcelona!

And, the most perfectly succulent medium rare Fillet Steak, I just had to add the Patagonia Malbec Reserve for a simply magical Sunday afternoon meal.

The chunky chips and peppercorn sauce just added to the shear culinary delights.

Until we speak again, move over Gaucho, there’s a new Argentina favourite on the block.

Man-made trees

Nature may well provide us with the most awe-inspiring beauty (woke apologies to the right wing bigots who simply don’t understand such concepts). It also provides the influence for breathtaking man-made inspiration.

Gaudi is known for a particular style of architecture as seen dotted liberally around the fine city of Barcelona. But, do we recognise the influence nature has as a central feature of his designs?

In the still incomplete La Sagrada Familia, the tree influences the dominant strength of the whole structure…

The playing with light also provides a constantly shifting natural life within the ongoing construction. Gaudi demonstrates a distinct sensitivity not only to the religious aspects of constructing an iconic cathedral, but also to our relationship to nature…

However, even in Park Guell, a truly nature inspired creation, the presence of trees within the design of structures is abundant. As seen in the viaduct structures at points around the park…

Until we speak again, if you must go to Barcelona as a tourist don’t forget your umbrella… but not because of the likelihood of rain. The locals are in rebellious mood these days. The focus of their ire has shifted from the interesting concept of Catalan independence to acting against over-tourism by squirting water over tourists. Now, if they would only learn to throw some of that lovely wine, I might linger around a little longer!

Memories of Krakow

It’s difficult to address the subject of Krakow without a mention of Auschwitz Birkenau

Or even the Wieliczka Salt Mines

But an abiding memory of my recent visit is of Kazimierz… the vibrant Jewish quarter before everyone was either murdered or herded into the smaller neighbouring Podgorze ghetto. All that remains of the ghetto walls is the tombstone-like section in Podgorze

As for Kazimierz, it’s now once again a thriving area of young people and tourists enjoying cafes, restaurants, and music venues.

However, many signs of its Jewish history haunt the atmospheric streets…

As for eating, the choice is abundant. My recommendation goes for some traditional fine Polish cuisine at Zalewajka. The pork knuckle terrine, potato cakes with wild boar goulash, and house Polish red wine provided a fine feast to mark my visit.

Until we speak again, Kazimierz offers a warm welcome… but don’t forget an umbrella!

History reborn

Current day Stag & Hen do’s have nothing on the Nazi’s when it comes to leaving a place wrecked after a visit…

On a recent visit to Warsaw, I was so happy to have visited both the Museum of Warsaw and the Warsaw Museum of Uprising. Combined, they provide a chilling reflection on the scale of shear destruction inflicted on this city.

However, they also provide the beacon of hope when we see what can be achieved in reconstruction using remaining photographs and plans the evil occupiers failed to destroy.

The Old Town in Warsaw may look a little shinier than say that in Krakow, but there is a renewed sense that history shouldn’t be obliterated and then simply left forgotten.

Sensitive reconstruction can be so much better than bland modernism (though wider Warsaw can claim both). It may well be more tourist orientated today, but that shouldn’t detract from the economic value that brings to the World Heritage site. Planners and architects the world over could learn a lot of positive messages from the instruction provided by Warsaw.

Until we speak again, I recommend you come support and enjoy the thriving reconstruction of a devastated city. But, be wary… the spectre of Russian surveillance may never be far away!

Stalin’s gift to Poland

Go to Warsaw… yes, it’s definitely recommended. Go to Warsaw. But remember that its most striking building on a fast rising skyline remains…

This apparently was Stalin’s gift to Poland after WWIIThe Palace of Culture and Science (Palac Kultury) built in the early 1950’s. On reflection, I suspect it was very much a box for bureaucrats, and locally, it’s understandably more likely to be thought of as a Monument to Soviet Oppression.

Whatever your political view on the history and meaning of this building, its vision of granduer and solidity are unmistakable and still manage to draw attention from the more recent steel and glass offerings to the sky. It also happens to have a great viewing platform for views around the city…

Until we speak again, Stalin’s statement of occupation to Poland serves as a reminder that we can successfully repurpose gifts we hate and see them from a different perspective… eventually.

A taste of Egypt

Why go to Cairo when you can have lunch Egyptian style in Chiswick? There may be many good reasons, but it’s not likely to be a relaxation-driven decision.

I hadn’t intended an Egyptian interlude to my day in west London. It just imposed itself in the moment. Alaz looked inviting, and the quick glance at online reviews drew me in.

Juno would no doubt have been disgusted by my meat-free choice of meal. But the traditional Egyptian dish of Koshari was too tempting to pass by for the ubiquitous Mediterranean & Middle Eastern lamb kofte or chicken dish.

What’s more, my choice of cafe/restaurant came without alcohol, with a Mint & Lemon juice providing such a refreshing option.

Who knew that a combination of rice, pasta, chickpeas, onion, and assorted a.n.other’s would be so tasty? Well, vegetarians and vegans, I guess… if they could summon up the strength to say!

Until we speak again, Egypt would be a great destination, I’m sure. But if you happen to be anywhere near west LondonAlaz is a great (and cheaper) alternative. Just don’t let the ghost of Juno catch you dabbling in meat-free stupidity.