It’s time to get that BritishTour of Summer2024 rolling further north. The notoriously hospitable Geordies are always good value… with or without the FogontheTyne!
They also know a thing or two about dramaticarchitecture! When you have a plethora of great Victorianbuildings and you want to sweep across your famous river with an equally dramaticbridge… just go for it!
Other city authorities take note (Cardiff in particular). Preserve what you have and be bold in enhancing it. Sorry, demolition crews, you’re simply not needed!
Great food is easily found in close walking distance at any time of day or night (QuayIngredient, Babucho, Turkos, and Kafeneon follow)…
Trying out some music gigs is relatively easy, whether you want localjazz at TheGlobe or a visit to TheCluny for Hawaiianukulele players presenting Jimi Hendrix in a totally new and illuminating light…
A good Victorian boozer will also help quench any thirst. So, why not try the CrownPosada amongst many others?
And when you tire of the hustle and bustle of the city, get the metro to Tynemouth for a combination of quaint village and seaside atmosphere…
Until we speak again, the locals will definitely be pleased to meet you in their own inimitable way… Wyeaye, man.
It’s time for a British Summer Tour 2024. Why go travelling the world in search of summer sunshine and exotic experiences? Yes, I know, that question has probably already answered itself.
In times of undoubted climate change, we can thank the mindless emitters and evidence deniers for the cooler and even wetter British June & July of 2024. Ducks need not engage with this previous sentiment!
However, we Celts do occasionally need to acknowledge that our English neighbours might just have some interesting places to visit. No, not London. For historical value, there are few better places to spend a couple of days in than York.
After years of conquest and occupation, the Romans finally decided the Mediterranean climate was more to their liking. It seems their departure was accompanied with a distinct middle finger to the Yorkshire locals…
However, their latter-day Italian ancestors have a lot to be thanked for when it comes to certain culinary twists on good British ingredients (particularly lamb)…
Conquests and posh nosh aside, when it comes to extending a welcome to neighbours across the street, where is better suited than the Shambles in York?
The most infamous Shambles also contains a few sources of mystery. Though I’m sure some questions don’t really need an answer…
Until we speak again, no visit to York is complete without breakfast at the famous Betty’sTeaRooms for a dish of kedgeree and some properly presented EnglishBreakfastTea…
Ah, this is more like it… so a couple of cats went to Bath!
At times, the sheer volume of tourist visitors to this internationally recognised city of historic and cultural heritage can be overwhelming. So, pick your timing for a visit carefully. Instructive street signage combined with an unusual welcome from a top-hatted bird might just help set a favourable tone!
But I’m sure what you, and millions of others, came for was undoubtedly a glimpse of the Royal Crescent. Always good to spend a few moments dreaming of what is and what can never be, I guess!
But climbing that hill while taking in a large dose of culture and history will surely require some sustenance. Maybe a chance to stretch the finances to indulge those fantasies of wealth. Well, fear not, award winning nosh is close to hand, not to ignore the tempting wine selection hidden behind the restaurant name… Corkage comes with great prior reviews, so let’s give it a look…
Amongst a wide range of liquid temptations, an enticing invitation from Puglia takes centre stage. With a little nudge from the wine waiter the more expensive vintage is ordered, in a nod to the opulent surroundings of this whole trip.
But the question is what to have with it? Maybe ‘spiced sweet potatoes with pickled red onion, lime and sumac yoghurt’ sounds a mystifying enough temptation. Then again, ‘frogslegs pan fried with grilled baby gem, lemon breadcrumbs and satay sauce’ would at least demonstrate the British openness to all things European, in the ongoing shambles of Brexitland. Then again, ‘colley fillet with wild rice, pan choi, tarragon hollandaise and chilli oil’ keeps swimming into vision. But the wine choice is red, so perhaps that ‘lamb rump with smoked mashed potato, roast parsnip and coffee jus’ is what’s really standing up to be counted here. But, wait a minute, ‘rabbit ragu with tagliatelle and mustard’ also comes hopping into view.
Decisions, decisions… with a further range of other tempting options putting up their hands for attention across a small but extraordinary menu. Then it comes to you… there is that most wondrous of phrases in the English language… ‘All of the above‘! And just then, you’re helpfully reminded that this restaurant does a small plates approach to dining. Not to be confused with tapas, no, not that small. Something that perfectly solves the ‘all of the above’ dilemma…
Such perfectly proportioned finery may even permit space to encourage surprise and more than a little admiration from a certain US based dessert aficionado. Why not bring on the burnt Basque cheesecake with mulled wine plums, garçon! After all, I’ve given in to more of these dessert temptations during this spring season than I have across the previous decade. However, I don’t think anything more than the world’s smallest spoonful of that chocolate affair, even with its rhubarb ganache, miso cream and crispy caramel, will pass these lips though.
Such a fine and delicate dining experience demands a post-meal walk; which is beautifully accommodated by this place of history and intrigue…
A comfortable place to rest is the next item on the itinerary, preferably with a seductive location for breakfast. Got that covered as well, as long as you’re not spooked by a strange equine companion closely observing you…
Until we speak again, perhaps there is a near perfect cappuccino to be found more easily than a recent US quest! Step forward Cortado, near Pulteney Bridge… and chill (return and repeat)!
Take a picture of this… it’s 1964 and the BBC teleprinter bangs out the football scores. To my amazement there is a team called Stenhousemuir! I must go and see them… my 7 year old self decides, not knowing exactly where it is, and with no means of getting there!
Fast forward 58 years of occasionally checking out their results (usually poor!), and, well…
… it’s what dreams are made of, isnt it! The media are hyping up the OldFirm match in Glasgow between Celtic and Rangers, but I’m off to where dreams come true… it’s StenhousemuirvStranraer, and a 58 year wait is about to come to a conclusion.
90 minutes of nail-biting excitement and ‘my team’… TheWarriors of Stenhousemuir win 3-1. Key celebrations… pigging out in a very Scottish way.
The night before… with a pig hidden beneath an egg and pineapple combo!And after the match… another pig… Chinese style, and believe me there are wok fried vegetables hiding out beneath the pork belly desperate to avoid the lime assault!
Was it worth the wait? I could say ask me in another 58 years time, but the pig-consuming activity would have long taken its toll by then… so, yes, they did me proud.
Until we speak again, Stenhousemuir has all bases covered for pig enthusiasts… either you take the healthier route, or they accommodate the other next door?!!!
For most people a visit to Edinburgh is likely to stir up thoughts of The Royal Mile, Arthur’s Seat, Princes Street, castles, museums and palaces. Steep hills, stone steps and cobbled streets ooze history. Then there is the incessant din of those bag pipes as you stroll from one quintessential Scottish souvenir shop to the next (all selling the same range of stuff). But, enough of these time fillers, when it comes to the serious business how does Edinburgh stand up to satisfying your appetites? Savouring AuldReekie comes with impressive surprises.
‘How do you like your eggs?’ is a very pertinent question of any culinary adventure, whatever time of the day it happens to be. But, what about your bee pollen, goji berries, pak choi and whisky sauce (but not all in the same meal)? Traditional Scottish fayre has certainly taken on an altogether more exotic flavour.
Starting the day needn’t be a boring tradition! At the UrbanAngel in New Town, just around the corner from ThistleStreet, the eggs might come baked with a tomato sauce accompanied by chorizo and black pudding. Just add an Acai Bowl of goji berries, bee pollen and coconut flakes, alongside your avocado on sourdough, with a freshly baked almond croissant. Just make sure you book a morning seat, because this place is deservedly popular.
So, you’ve loaded up on history and culture, or good old shopping. But, what you’re really focused on is the potential provenance of that next meal. What is it currently doing… quacking, mooing, baaing, or maybe gently gliding some slinky watery moves.
CafeMarlayne on ThistleStreet doesn’t go in for the over elaborate menu choices, but what it offers comes with a side of style. Swoon over a crispy fried egg and asparagus starter, complete with a grainy Freekah (whatever Freekah is).
Then, it’s time to offend Daffy’s sensibilities, with neatly presented duck breast, carrot and ginger puree, pak choi in sesame oil, spring onions and a hoisin glaze.
FishersintheCity, on ThistleStreet (yes, there again) offers good old fashioned Scottish tradition with a modern twist. Scallops, salsify puree, and Stornoway black pudding was just begging to be eaten long before the ubiquitous photograph could be taken.
Then there was the national treasure… LochDuart Salmon simply presented but delicately flavoured, served with new potatoes, green beans and a sauce vierge. It just called for a side of perfect chips, and Fishers duely obliged. This was my kind of Fish & Chips!
Before you start thinking Edinburgh only does British dishes, albeit in quite some style, CafeAndaluz on George Street in New Town (parallel to ThistleStreet) sets up a fine range of tapas. OK, so you need longer to read the menu than to eat the food, but each dish was presented in a way that says ‘we want you to plan your return… very soon!’. You’ll have to guess the range of dishes here, but somewhere in there lies a black pudding dish that deserves its own Michelin star.
So, what about traditional Scottish Haggis? Well, the Haggis&WhiskyHouse on CockburnStreet in the Old Town (what, not ThistleStreet in the New Town?) shows that even tradition can be tinkered with to great effect… Haggis, tatties and neeps in a whisky sauce showcases the dish in all its finery. OK, so chips aren’t the natural accompaniment, but when they’re this good, tradition can be left outside the door.
Until we speak again, all of the above delights, except the Haggis&WhiskyHouse, were found within a 200metre walk within New Town. Why expend unnecessary energy searching for fabulous food. There is even a most fabulous coffee place on ThistleStreet where the beans are often roasted while you wait, and believe me, the wait is worth it.
It’s that frequently annoying situation. Your train arrives in the station on time, only to find your connection is cancelled with a two hour wait for the next service.
When in Salisbury next, I suggest you hope for such a situation! 5 minutes walk brings you to the fabulous Lebaneserestaurant of Baroushka…
This is a place where a leisurely approach to lunch is required; maybe even absolutely demanded…
A starter of grilledhalloumi with a rocketsalad accompaniment was the perfect balance of baked exterior with a delicately soft cheese interior. Looking like perfectly toasted slices of bread this provided a light appetizer…
The main course of pear glazed duck breast on a bed of cous cous withanorangesalad provided a delightful range of contrasting tastes and textures. Even the designs of plate and table cloth add to the overall welcome sensual assault, to remind you that relaxation need not be a mindless exercise…
A TurkishCoffee came with a range of ethnic paraphernalia, including a cube of TurkishDelight…
The SpicedGingerBeer was a further addition to the assault on the taste buds. Is this placed licensed? You bet, with an extensive range of beers, wines and cocktails. But this is lunch, right… and some of us have yet to navigate the dysfunctions of the privatised rail system with a clear head!
Until we speak again, apologies to any readers stranded by rail cancellations elsewhere… you really are in the wrong place.
For me, this is a 1980’s stroll down reminiscence lane. For you, this is a tale of two sides of the road.
Go south and you are in a twilight zone of mid and high rise blocks liberally interspersed with unsavoury looking fast food joints. A place where obesity and Brexit may hook up for a sleazy night out!
This is where the old saying bears some truth… “What the Luftwaffe started the town planners finished!”
However, cross the road to the north side and you can stroll the Georgian terraces that surround TredegarSquare, a short distance from VictoriaPark… undoubtedly a place where the metropolitan liberal elite hang out. So, if you find yourself in MileEnd with a spare 24 hours on your hands, don’t be afraid, just find north on your compass.
Start with a fueling stop at TheGreedyCow, where a KangarooBurger hops off the menu to assault your gastronomic whims.
Yes, you heard right first time, it is pinned down for a reason…
Then you simply meander through the conservation area to find a range of traditional watering holes to quench that marsupial thirst. TheLordTredegar is a great old Victorian boozer serving up a fine pint of Hophead pale ale…
Then there is the MorganArms, requiring a careful navigation to avoid the resident GreeneKing family! A one time great traditional brewery that has joined many others in spoiling the name of good beer with its capitalist quest to take over the world of ‘falling down lotion’…
And if the dawn of a new day still finds you in fighting fettle why not avoid the traditional Youngs beers and opt for a ProperJobIPA in TheCoborn? Just don’t let on to a certain regular reader that it comes from Cornwall…oops!
Need something less alcoholic? Who needs those coffee chains when you can pop in to an authentic independent Italian coffee house?
Until we speak again, this has been a nostalgic gastronomic trip down memory lane. As for the present day… if you are looking to get Brexit done, it has all gone south.
How do you avoid the repetition of a traditional Christmas meal? Well, we’ve previously done Cardiff in July, Blackheath in June, central London in January… but here we were, planning on having our annual Christmas meal in December of all places! Trouble is, most restaurants seem to want to ditch what they are known for, and produce their version of what everyone is doing.
I have to admit, on this occasion I was doing the travelling, so it seemed only right to delegate the venue choice to the dude living locally. “Peckham…”, he suggested. Well, the first thing to come to mind was the song lyric “Is there life in Peckham?” Turns out, there really is, and amongst other contenders, it is alive and well at…
On inspecting the online menu possibilities, it seemed like we were attending the first night of a somewhat far more adventurous Christmas menu than I had seen before. But, despite getting up my resolve to go for it, redemption came in the form of having to book it in advance. We hadn’t, so we were left to their very own tradition of setting out their Italian inspired menu of the day on a blackboard near the restaurant entrance…
A Salt Beef starter arrived with just the right blend of soft melt-in-the-mouth tender brisket and tart pickled cucumber…
The main dish of Rigatoni Sausage Ragu came in the form of small pasta tubes with smaller pieces of sausage in a delicate balance. Why get stuffed, when you can just enjoy a satisfying blend of complementary flavours? Though it is very clear to me that had Juno been present that Sea Bream across the table would not last the time it takes for a blog post snap…
Until we speak again, it seems there is life in Peckham, and it comes in a very satisfyingly un-Christmas package. Artusi is for any time, not just for Christmas!
Fossil fuel dependence is gradually waning, renewable sources are on the increase, and nuclear power causes its usual divisions of opinion. However, down on the south bank of the river Thames power is being restored through a wholly different climateofchange… and an old icon is getting a facelift as well as a complete new purpose in life.
Until we speak again, Battersea seems to be the word for architectural puzzles these days… not just for dogs!
I thought Cardiff Castle was enough of a Victorian Folly, but just take a stroll a couple hundred yards back from the seafront of Brighton, and let your biscuit be taken!
So, why go to India when you can experience ‘it’ without so much of the heat and humidity? Who needs authenticity these days… Chicken Korma anyone!?
Until we speak again, BrightonPavilion offers the kind of India you are unlikely to find in… err… India!