History didn’t end when us white Europeans colonised the already populated lands we know of as America. But we do occasionally have an arrogant tendency to look on these parts as too young by comparison if they try to claim historical context.
Take the Treme district of New Orleans, for example. The widely recognised birthplace of jazz also happens to be the oldest Black neighbourhood in the USA. 212 years and counting is good going. You may not find any ruined centuries old castles here, but if you open your mind, then walking these streets inspires imagination.
As a neighbourhood, Treme likes to wear its pride prominently on its sleeve. History emerges from a wealth of creative people and culture with memories that reverberate down the generations.
Alongside a thirst for knowledge all of this walking can generate an appetite. Talking of which… Dooky Chase’s is right on hand and remains a must for Southern Fried Chicken at its best… particularly with sides of stewed okra & mustard greens.
For many visitors to NOLA, the French Quarter just may be all they see or struggle with their vision after many hours imbibing on Bourbon Street. Pre-inebriation historical appreciation can still be indulged, for example, a stroll by what claims to be the oldest bar in the US (Lafitte’s Blacksmith Shop Bar). But, look forward and look up in order to appreciate that mix of classic French/Spanish architectural styles.
And when that stomach rumbles to a beckoning tune, you’re spoiled for choice with fabulous restaurants populating the area. On this auspicious occasion, Antoine’s Restaurant on St Louis Street provides a perfect blend of historical setting and fine dining.
It’s a shame that eating the full menu wasn’t physically an option, so I had to be satisfied with a cup of Seafood Gumbo, Grilled Pompano Fish, and their signature Pecan Bread Pudding. An armtwisting got me to accept a French Medoc off the burgundy list. But don’t let the erstwhile ‘enforcer’ know I said it was a great choice.
And so to the Garden District, with all its horticultural finery on display. There is no shortage of historic opulence here. Just let your imagination cast its own spells as you wonder who lived in these great residences over the years. A few have their historic occupants named on metal plaques to indulge your curiosity.
And, any district affording the donation of the following building as a public library isn’t doing too bad for itself.
Still feeling peckish after a mesmerising meander around ‘the Garden‘? Why not make a reservation (months in advance) for the iconic Commanders Palace.
Once again, the food was otherworldly… just don’t ask about our experience of the service as it failed to match the incredibly high expectations we brought to the table. The Turtles were sure doing what they did best… with the help of an ostentatious splash au Sherry at the table! The Chargrilled Jerk Spiced Duroc Pork Chop was simply steak-like in its presence and undoubtedly the best chop I’ve ever tasted… with special thanks to the provider, I hope they enjoyed the life dedicated to this moment.
And, yes, he who doesn’t often do deserts was diving into another Creole Bread Pudding Souffle affair… this time with warm whiskey cream.
Until we speak again, dive into your history with a passion equal to your culinary fascinations. But beware of unexpected pyrotechnics… when they ask if you like your food ‘hot’, this wasn’t what I had in mind.
JUNO's VIEW 