Memories of Krakow

It’s difficult to address the subject of Krakow without a mention of Auschwitz Birkenau

Or even the Wieliczka Salt Mines

But an abiding memory of my recent visit is of Kazimierz… the vibrant Jewish quarter before everyone was either murdered or herded into the smaller neighbouring Podgorze ghetto. All that remains of the ghetto walls is the tombstone-like section in Podgorze

As for Kazimierz, it’s now once again a thriving area of young people and tourists enjoying cafes, restaurants, and music venues.

However, many signs of its Jewish history haunt the atmospheric streets…

As for eating, the choice is abundant. My recommendation goes for some traditional fine Polish cuisine at Zalewajka. The pork knuckle terrine, potato cakes with wild boar goulash, and house Polish red wine provided a fine feast to mark my visit.

Until we speak again, Kazimierz offers a warm welcome… but don’t forget an umbrella!

History reborn

Current day Stag & Hen do’s have nothing on the Nazi’s when it comes to leaving a place wrecked after a visit…

On a recent visit to Warsaw, I was so happy to have visited both the Museum of Warsaw and the Warsaw Museum of Uprising. Combined, they provide a chilling reflection on the scale of shear destruction inflicted on this city.

However, they also provide the beacon of hope when we see what can be achieved in reconstruction using remaining photographs and plans the evil occupiers failed to destroy.

The Old Town in Warsaw may look a little shinier than say that in Krakow, but there is a renewed sense that history shouldn’t be obliterated and then simply left forgotten.

Sensitive reconstruction can be so much better than bland modernism (though wider Warsaw can claim both). It may well be more tourist orientated today, but that shouldn’t detract from the economic value that brings to the World Heritage site. Planners and architects the world over could learn a lot of positive messages from the instruction provided by Warsaw.

Until we speak again, I recommend you come support and enjoy the thriving reconstruction of a devastated city. But, be wary… the spectre of Russian surveillance may never be far away!

Stalin’s gift to Poland

Go to Warsaw… yes, it’s definitely recommended. Go to Warsaw. But remember that its most striking building on a fast rising skyline remains…

This apparently was Stalin’s gift to Poland after WWIIThe Palace of Culture and Science (Palac Kultury) built in the early 1950’s. On reflection, I suspect it was very much a box for bureaucrats, and locally, it’s understandably more likely to be thought of as a Monument to Soviet Oppression.

Whatever your political view on the history and meaning of this building, its vision of granduer and solidity are unmistakable and still manage to draw attention from the more recent steel and glass offerings to the sky. It also happens to have a great viewing platform for views around the city…

Until we speak again, Stalin’s statement of occupation to Poland serves as a reminder that we can successfully repurpose gifts we hate and see them from a different perspective… eventually.

Conspiracy theorists nightmare

I can’t say there was much I didn’t already know as I took a guided tour of Auschwitz Birkenau… but wow, does being there pack an emotional punch to the gut.

It’s been almost 50 years since it was first suggested to me that if the chance comes along, I should make the visit. The nearest thing we will know to the gates of hell.

In all of those years, I’ve been dumbfounded when I hear of holocaust deniers and the unbelievable nonsense perpetrated by conspiracy theorists. The Nazis tried and failed to cover up their own evil

There is no way conspiracy nut jobs should be given any space for their lies and disinformation to cover over the truth. I’m more convinced that conspiracy theorists were deliberately created so that those of us who have a brain shouldn’t become complacent! The right wing thugeratti just happen to be their main way of communicating their message of fear. Sometimes… the truth is far more terrifying.

Until we speak again, today’s visit only showed me even more strongly what happens when you ride roughshod over diversity, equity, and inclusion. Wake up, world, the lesson has yet to be learned!